230 
Sow the last fortnight in March, and April, and in the beginning 
of May and in August. The first week in April for a principal 
crop of German kale, and the first week in August for the 
crop of Buda kale, and which will be ready to transplant in 
September. 
Subsequent culture. When the plants have leaves one or two 
inches broad, take out some from the seed-bed, and prick them 
into other open beds six inches apart, giving water, in which let 
them have four or five weeks’ growth. Those left in the seed- 
bed, as well as these will have all acquired proper strength for 
transplanting finally in May, or thence till August. Plant them 
in an open spot in rows two feet and a half asunder for the first 
forward planting in summer, the other two feet, allotting the 
whole similar distances in the rows, taking advantage of moist 
weather, but give occasional watering if the weather is dry until 
they have struck root. In their advancing growth hoe once or 
twice to cut down the weeds, and to draw earth about the bottom 
of their stems to encourage their growth, in the production of 
large full heads in proper season in September, October, &c. 
At the approach of winter the stems should be earthed up, espe- 
cially the taller sorts. When the distances between the plants 
are such as have been recommended, the hills round each plant 
will be of such a size and breadth as to cherish the roots of the 
dwarf varieties, and serve as a protection to the tall sorts in 
stormy weather. 
Gathering. The heart is to be gathered of all tall sorts, after 
which, with the exception of the German kale, and the Chou de 
Milan, the stalks should be pulled up and taken to the compost 
heap; but the stems of the two sorts excepted are to be left for 
the sake of their side shoots or sprouts. Of the dwarf sorts the 
heart may either be cut off, for which the Buda kale and Cole- 
worts are well suited, or the leaves gathered when the plant 
begins to grow, which corresponds with the habits of the Egyp- 
tian and Jerusalem kale. . 
To save. Plant a few plants about twice the distance from 
each other, as they stood formerly, in an open space in the spring. 
The seeds will be ready to gather in autumn, when they may 
be threshed out, and the seed, after being dried, may be put 
up into bags. This cannot be done with more than one sort in 
the same garden, on account of promiscuous impregnation by 
bees, the wind, &c. &c. 
§ 3. Savoys. Chou pommé frisé, Chou de Savoie, Chou cabu 
frisé. Chou Pancalier, Chou de Holland, Chou de Milan, &c. 
(Brassica oleracea, C. bullàta, D. C. l. c.) These plants are 
easily known by the leaves being blistered, and growing into 
heads or cabbages. 
The savoy is in use as a table vegetable from November till 
spring, unless destroyed by frost, in which case it is sueceeded 
by the borecoles or winter greens. These two tribes usually 
supply the table from November till May. 
The following are the varieties of Savoy :— 
1 The Green Savoy ; Milan vert. (Fr.) B. oler. bull. viridis.) 
2 The Dwarf Savoy ; Milan nain. (Fr. B. oler. bull. himilis, 
D. C. l.c.) 
3 The Yellow Savoy ; Milan jaune. (Fr.) (B. oler. bull. lutea.) 
4 The Small Early Savoy; Milan hatif, petit Milan. (Fr.) 
(B. oler. bull. t. præcox, D. C. l. c.) 
5 The Eared Savoy ; Milan dore. (Fr.) (B. oler. bull. aurita. 
D. C. l. c.) 
6 The Drumhead or Great Savoy; Chou gros d’ Ambervil- 
liers, Pommé frisé d Allemagne. (Fr.) (B. oler. bull. var. y, 
major, D. C. l. c.) 
7 The Oblong Savoy. (B. oler. bull. var. B,oblónga, D. C. l.c.) 
8 Tourraine Savoy; Pancalier de Touraine. (Fr.) (B. oler. 
bull. vulg. Turionensis). 
There are several sub-varieties of the above with round, ob- 
CRUCIFERÆ. LXXXIII. Brassica. 
long, conical, or sugar-loaf heads, all of them are excellent, 
autumnal greens. The Green Savoy should be first used, as it 
is less hardy than the Yellow, and the Dwarf is said to be the 
hardiest of them all. Any of them will, however, stand ordinary 
frosts, by which the delicacy of their flavour is much improved. 
The Savoy is always raised from seed, and for a seed-bed 4 feet 
and ahalf by 8 feet, half an ounce of seed will be sufficient. 
This esculent answers on a light rich soil, poor or exhausted 
ground should be manured according to the defects of it. Alot 
an open compartment in the full air, that the seedlings and ad- 
vancing plants may grow stocky, and not draw up weak and long- 
stemmed, as they are liable to do in close situations or narrow 
borders under walls. As to the time of sowing the seeds a 
sufficient succession is obtained by three or at most four sowings. 
The first about the middle or latter end of February, these will 
be ready in August or September, and they will be finely cab- 
baged by October, and continue in good perfection all November, 
December, and perhaps January. ‘The second about the middle 
or latter end of March; these will be ready to serve from about 
Michaelmas to Christmas. The third both at the beginning and 
end of March, full crops should now be sown for the first con- 
siderable autumn and winter crop. The fourth in May. For 
the culture of the Savoy the ground should be previously 
trenched to a good depth. Four feet is a convenient width for 
the seed-beds. Sow broad-cast, and rake it in a quarter of an 
inch deep. As soon as the plants have two or three leaves, an 
inch or two in width, if they stand too crowded, thin the seed- 
beds by drawing out a quantity regularly, and prick them into 
other beds 4 inches asunder; and should the weather be dry, 
water those left as well as those removed. Permit both divi- 
sions to remain three, four or five weeks to gain a good stocking 
size for final transplanting. When the plants are advanced with 
several leaves 2 or 3 inches broad or more, transplant them 
finally into the most open quarters of ground, where they will 
be less annoyed by caterpillars, that they may cabbage with 
large full heads, planting them at different times as ground 
becomes vacant. Remove the most forward in May or June 
for early autumn heading in August or September. But plant 
the principal crops in June or July, and from the beginning to 
the middle of August, taking all possible advantage of showery 
weather ; in drawing the plants observe if any are clubbed or 
knotty at the root, cut off the protuberances close. Plant those 
removed in May, June, or July in rows about two feet asunder, 
and by the same distance in the rows, others late planted 
in August or September two feet by eighteen inches. In scarcity 
of vacant ground, some Savoys may be occasionally planted 
between wide rows of previous standing crops, such as Beans, 
Cauliflowers, and early Cabbage, that are sufficiently forward to 
be gathered off by the time the Savoys will want the entire 
ground. Before and after planting in dry weather watering 
would be of essential service. As the plants of the different 
successions advance, keep them free from weeds by occasiona 
draw-hoeing. At the same time loosen the surface of the earth, 
and draw some about the stems of the plants, let this be done 
twice or oftener, to forward them in a free énlarging growth. 
They will gradually heart, fully cabbaging in September, Octo- 
ber, November, and December, &c. as they are the crops of 
forward or the later sowings ; they may be cut for use accor, 
ingly, and during the winter. The Savoys left standing W! 
continue good till the middle or end of February, when, or ™ 
the course of March they open and send up seed-stalks. 
* Brussels sprouts. Chou à jets, Chou à jets et rejets, Ch 
de Bruxelles, Chou à mille tetes, Chou vert à petites pommes te 
long du pied. (Fr.) (Brássica oleracea, C. bullata ò, gemm- 
fera, D.C. l c.) . 
The Brussels sprouts is only considered a sub-variety of the 
