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AMPELIDEÆ. 
formed a union, lest the grafted part spring from the stock. 
But in whip or cleft-grafting the clay may be taken off when the 
scion has made shoots 5 or 6 inches long. 
Culture of the vinery.—On the culture of so importanta fruit as 
the vine, it is not surprising that there should be a great variety 
ofopinions. We shall only give those of modern British gardeners. 
Soil.—Speechly, late gardener at Welbeck, made use of the 
following compost. One-fourth part of garden mould (strong 
loam); one-fourth of the turf from a pasture where the soil 
is sandy loam; one-fourth of the sweepings and scrapings 
of pavements and hard roads; one eighth of rotten cow and 
stable-yard dung mixed, and one eighth of vegetable mould 
from decayed leaves, turned over and broken with the spade ; 
then put it to the other materials and work the whole well toge- 
ther.— Treat. on the vine, p. 25. He also covers his vine beds 
with a coat of gravel 2 inches thick. Abercrombie recommends 
“of top spit sandy loam from an upland pasture, one-third part ; 
unexhausted brown loam from the garden one-third part ; 
scrapings of roads free from clay one sixth part; vegetable 
mould or old tan reduced to earth, or rotten stable-dung, one- 
eighth part.” The borders he recommends “to be from 3 to 5 
feet in depth, and where practicable, not less than 4 feet wide in 
surface within the house, communicating with a border outside 
the building of not less than 10 feet wide.” M‘Phail gives the 
following directions: ‘ To make a suitable border where it is 
required for the grape-vine, provide a large quantity of earth of 
a loamy nature, that from arable land or from a ridge, in whicha 
hedge-row, or hazel, maple, &c. have grown many years and have 
been grubbed ; or a spit deep from the surface of a common, long 
pastured, or from the head or end lands of a corn-field. For 
forcing vines do best in a strong deep loam, not destitute of a 
mixture of sand and well manured with rotten dung, on a dry 
bottom of hard clay.” Nicol says, ‘“‘ the average depth of a 
border should not be less than a yard, if 4 feet so much the 
better. The border should not be narrower outside and inside 
of the house than 30 feet. The soil should be thus composed : 
one half strong hazelly loam, one fourth light sandy earth, an 
eighth part of vegetable mould or decayed tree-leaves, and an 
eighth part of rotten dung; to which may be added a moderate 
quantity of lime or shell marl. These articles should be well 
mixed before planting.” Wm. Griffin, who has received the 
medal of the Horticultural Society for his skill in cultivating 
vines at Woodhall in Hertfordshire, forms his vine borders as 
ows, After being completely drained, the whole bottom is 
covered with brick, stone, or lime rubbish about 6 inches thick, 
“ep this is laid a compost of “ half good loamy soil with its 
» One quarter of rich solid old dung, and one quarter of brick 
n me-rubbish, the turf well rotted, and the whole well in- 
‘Porated.” Hort. trans. vol. 4. pi 100. D. Judd (Hort. 
pin Vol. 4. p. 4.) uses the following compost : half of rich 
y loam from a common; a quarter of rich old dung; 
à quarter of lime-rubbish and leaf-mould mixed together. 
se materials were kept separate and frequently turned during 
ain rearded, especially when young. ) 
. nof old tan, from having experienced (with Speechly, 
in? and others) that the vine will root in that more freely 
any other substance. 
Poperly 2, plants.—Those raised from eyes and have been 
been i ned to a single shoot the second year after having 
a Ck are preferred; but where plants have to be sent 
inn. Sreat distance, Justice prefers cuttings to plants contain- 
mch or two of the old wood and 12 of the new; these 
IV. Vitis. 703 
ne plants at Nail, ere neve at in emain, as practised in 
; . - art. . details a speedy mode 
of storing a new grape-house. However, this mode can only be 
practised where a vinery exists previously, or where there is a 
friend s vinery in the neighbourhood. In the end of June or 
the beginning of July, when the vines have made shoots 10 or 
12 feet long, and about the time of the fruit setting, select any 
supernumerary shoots, bend them down so as to make them a 
double or flexure, into a pot filled with earth, taking care that a 
portion of last year’s wood, containing a joint, pass into the soil 
m the pot; keep them each in a wet state, and at the same 
time maintain a moist warm air in the house, and in a week or 
10 days roots will be seen proceeding from the joint. The layer 
may now be safely detached. Very frequently it contains 1 or 
2 bunches of grapes, which continue to grow and come to per- 
fection. A new grape-house may be furnished in this way with 
plants in 3 months as by the usual method in 3 years; for in 
the second year they will yield a good crop of grapes, but they 
should be allowed only to bear a moderate crop the first year, 
for if allowed to bear a full crop the first year, the plants would 
necessarily show their exhausted state by barrenness the follow- 
ing year. A mode of more general utility is to select the plants 
in the nursery a year before wanted, and to order them to be 
potted into rather large pots, baskets, or tubs, filled with richish 
earth and plunged into a tan bed. They will thus make shoots, 
which, the first year after their final destination will, under 
ordinary circumstances, produce fruit. 
Planting.—Vines are commonly trained against a back wall 
or a trellis under the glass roof. In the first case, the plants 
are always planted in the inside of the house ; but in the latter, 
there are two opinions among practical men, one in favour of 
planting outside, and the other inside the parapet wall. Where 
the vines are to be drawn out when in a dormant state, as is 
generally the case with those trained under the rafters in pineries, 
outside planting must be adopted; but for vineries, where this 
practice is not requisite, it seems preferable to plant them inside. 
Abercrombie says, “ let them be carefully turned out of the 
pots, reducing the ball a little, and singling out the matted 
roots. Then place them in the pits, just as deep in the earth as 
they were before, carefully spreading the roots, and filling them 
up with vegetable mould or light earth. Settle all with a little 
water, and let them have plenty of free air every day, defending 
them from severe frost and wet till they begin to push young 
shoots.” D. Judd (hort. trans. 4. p. 4.). The vines being reared 
from eyes in March, cut them down to one eye the following 
March, put them into bottom heat, there to stand until they pro- 
duce shoots 2 feet long, afterwards hardenthem in the green-house, 
where a temperature of 60 degrees is kept ; there to remain until 
they grow 2 feet longer. Holes are made in the border in the 
beginning of May, and about a barrowfull of old rotten tan put 
in each hole, in the middle of which the balls are placed, after 
having been treated as follows : the leaves are cut from the lower 
part of the stem 2} feet of its length ; the end of the shoot is 
then drawn through the hole in the wall, the ball is placed 2 
feet distant from the wall on its side, so that the stem will lie 
ina horizontal position, about 6 inches below the level of the sur- 
face of the border, and that part of the stem which is to be co- 
vered with earth is slit or tongued at every eye, to the centre of 
the joint. This being done, the stem Is covered with old tan, and 
abundance of roots will be produced from every eye so slit. 
After the roots had issued from the slits, it was surprising the 
progress the shoots made, under J udd s management they were 
from 25 to 30 feet long, and proportionate ın strength. 
Season of planting.—Plants that are in pots may be planted 
at any time of the year, but the autumn and spring months are 
preferred. 
