T 



that it kiidi 



all over 



tli 



V 



ofcentunes hindors the fcriViCntation. Thuk covetous 

 perlbns who are iriorc dtrtirous of the qiuinrity ilvdw 

 the quality, ule not thcfe precautions -, but on the 

 other hand, thofc who would make excellent wuu's, I v^ill be cxtingulihcd : and if this wine be put in an 



tates itfelf in fuch a manner, 



cellar, fumes t!ut will intoxicate-, ?,:u\ which 



fuch motion, tliac a lix'-'ued candle bi^inp- carried thither 



re in' 



do not put into the lame vat any Grapes but thofeol 

 the fame Vine-, but almoil all the particular pcrlbns 

 who have a hundred perches of vineyard in different 

 cantons, mingle their Grapes the one with the other, 

 becaufe the Itrong helps the v/eak, and the good 

 mends that which is worfe, and in a word,^ that they 

 may make the vat the larger. The choice of the 

 cantons from whence the wine is produced, depends 

 on the difcernment that the commiffioners ought to 

 have, when they tafte the wines they would fend into 

 other countries, and that which the Englifn gentle- 

 men ouo-ht to recommend to their commiflioners who 

 furniHi them with wine for their drinking. 

 The Grapes, being put into the fermenting vat, throw 

 up a great fcum, which by the agitation, make to the 

 ears a continual trembling, a little cluttering, and 

 fpread abroad fuch a fcent, that is capable of intoxi- 

 cating^, and perfum.es the houfes, andfpreads itfelf all 



over the town. 



They do not let the Grapes lie Hill in the vat, they 



ftir them and difturb them. The labourers trample 

 them brifkly three different times, for the fpace of 

 two hours each time. And to give a clear idea of the 

 manner of treating the Grapes in the vat, as foon as 

 they begin to ferment in the vat, they tread them for 

 two hours at the leaft ; fix hours after they tread them 

 again for' as long time as before ; and fix hours after 

 that they tread them the third time ; and after that 

 they put them into the prefs. 



It muft be obfervedj that the Grapes of Vol net, of 

 Pomard, and Beaune, being fermented in the vat in 

 the field, cannot be let ftand above twelve or eight- 

 teen hours there -, thofe of Pomard a little lefs -, thofe 

 of Beaune fa long, or a little longer, according to 



.vith t\\c haiul, ajvd you flop 

 b, the cjiav will break in a 



ellay and Ihakcn a little wit 

 the ne;.k with your thum 

 thoufand pieces. 



In Burgundy, that which they call :in efiay, is a little 

 round bottle, in length about thre;: or four inches, 

 and about two in circumference, w^hich grows Icfs all 

 of a fuddcn at the top, in order to form a little neck 

 open, having a little rim to receive the wine and the 

 cork. 



The wine having call its fire and fcum out of the 

 caflcs, eight days after they fi:] them up again, and 

 flop them up v;ith a Vine leaf, which they fpread over 

 the bung; and left the vapours of the wine fliould 

 move this leaf out of its place, they lay a little fione 

 upon it to keep it down ^ becaufe if they (hould put 

 upon it a feal, or a bung, the wine not having air. 



o 



'*" or fix 



would pufii the heads of the cafics out. Fiv 

 days after they feal it, and near the bung they bore 

 a hole, and ftop the hole v/hi<:h the p;imlet has made 

 in the tun with a little bit of round-pointed wood, 

 which they call a faucet, which they take out from 

 time to time to let the fpirits evaporate ; which pre- 

 caution prevents the wine from burfting the veficl. 



This is the time when at Beaune are to be ken the 

 merchants from all the corners of Europe, v;!iocome 

 to fecure the beft vats for their kings, princes, and 

 mafiers. 



4 



The commiffioners and their wine conners prove the 



wines, although they are not yet drinkable. The 



commiflloners'are the public managers, to which all 



;, thofe who would have the wines from Burgundy, ad- 



drefs themfelves either by letters, or in perfon. 



: Thefe are the judges, which, time out of mind, 



■. from father to fon, have certain experience of all the 



^^ 



/ 



the delicatenefs of the ground, and the heat of tiie { vats, who know the climates, clofes, and the can- 

 Grapes j for there are vineyards behind the hills of I tons, from which they are produced, and all the 



good cellars; to whom it isfufficienttowritefor what 



quantity of wine one would have^ and of what diftrift 



_or can tori one" would bave.jt~i ahd'^ provided they 



; havq ;be purchafe money paid in the fpace of the cur- 



Beaune, the Grapes of which do not begin to ferment 

 till after they have been eight or ten days in the vat. 

 Noie farther,'' That to give a colour to the wine, de- 



pends on tH'e time more of lefs that it is left in the 

 vatr iAs for example, the whines of Volnet have the 



colour of a partridge's eye. This is the caufe they 

 do not leave the Grapes of this ground but a very lit- 

 tle time in the vat ; and if they fliould let them be 



/ 





7 - 



I 



there but a little longer than they ought, the win 

 would lofe its delicacy, and would tafte of the Grape 

 ftonesor the ftalks. 



After the Grapes have been, according to their qua- 

 lity, more or lefs time in the vat, and have been 

 trodden, there fwims over a liquor they call furmou. 

 The have cafks of fixfcore pots, or half hogfiieads of 

 'fixty pots, ranged upon 'chantiefs, of'ftillirigs'for 

 hogfiieads, into which, by' equal portions, they caft 

 in this firft running ; and afterwards they put the 

 Grapes that remain on the prefs, when the furmou 

 has been drawn off; and when thefe have been well 



{^reffed, all the liquor that comes from therh is eqiial- 

 y diftributed into thofe pieces where they hav6 al- 

 ready put the unpreflTed wine : and then they Qp?n the 

 prefs, and afterward with a planer, they cut the prefiT- 

 ed mark three or four fingers thicknefs round about, 

 and put the parings in the middle, and afterward 

 prefs it again ; then they cut it again, and prefs it a 

 third time; and all the liquors of thefe different 

 preflings are equally diftributed into the tuns till they 



are full. 



■^../ent year, one may be fure to be well fcrvcd. 



-_., Thefe managers, having received all the commiffions 

 from private perfons, go to the citizens, and fill their 

 efi^ays of the different vats which they find in good 

 cellars ; and with the tickets that they tie to the neck 

 of every little bottle, or the nam.e of the vat, v^ith the 

 quantity of the pieces of wine which they contain, 

 they carry them to their houfes, and let them be un- 

 flropped. They examine and attend them carefullv, 

 and by the diff'erent changes, tafte, and colour, they 

 fee the future colours and qualities of the wine, .that 



"Upon which it ought to be ohferved, that the un- 

 preflTed wine is the moft light, delicate, and leaft co- 

 loured liquor ; that which comes off the firft cut of 

 the prefs the moft racy, and that which comes from 

 the fecond and third cut of the prefs, is more hard, 

 red, and green, fo that thefe three forts of qualities 

 being united, make a wine much better, more dura- 

 ble, and finer coloured, r'. 



All thefe pieces or tuns being full, they leave the 

 bung open, and the wine, in a fury, fhakes and agi- 



<*•* '^ 



are in the tuns from which the effays arc taken. They 

 alio make yet another proof v/ith the wine Vv'hich is 

 in the effays ; they take glaffes, upon which they 

 put a finking paper, which they fpread, and which 

 juts out over the glaffes, and prefs their finger to 

 ..make a concavity, w.hich may contain a fourth part 

 of a glafs of wine. The liquor paffes by little apd 

 little, and filters through the paper, and drains^djop 

 by drop in an imperceptible manner into the ,g.lais 

 which receives it. By the fight of the wine which 

 ^paffes thro' this paper, they make good conjcftures, 

 founded upon long experience, concerning the defti- 

 nated tafte, of the colour, and of the laftingnefs of the 

 colour, of the wines they have proved. 

 The commiffioners having made their purchafes ac- 

 cordino; to the order which they have received from 

 their correfpondents and merchants, they make pre- 

 parations to fend them according to their orders ; and 

 as to the price of the purchafe, they cannot deceive 

 any perfon withcuc^running great rifques, for ii they 

 (hould make thofe who fend for thefe wines pay more 

 for them than, they can buy them for in the cellar, 

 they would expofe themfelves to hanging by an arret 

 of the parliament of Burgundy, who have made a 

 law for the afcertaining the fidelity 6f the commerce 



of 



I ' 



