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or fweet odour. The good takers tafte it bj* their 



nofc, before they put it to their mouths ; and all the 

 other climates of Burgundy, as thofe of Chablia and 

 Auxerre, have no fuch quality as the true wines of 

 Burgundy have, although they are really made and 

 produced there. ; . . : . - 



It remains for me to relate how thefe v/ines may be 

 brought to England. ■ It has always been the cuftom 

 to bring thofe wines from Burgundy in their cafks -, 

 but as the carriage is long, and there is oftentimes a 

 rifque run, fo the carriers as well by land as by fea, 

 are not always faithful ; for notwithftanding all the 

 precaution that can be taken to hinder them from 

 drinking the wine, they will always find out ftrata- 

 gems to do it. If it be packed up in cafks with ftraw 

 and linen cloths, this is but a feeble obftacle to their 

 induftry. And for all this precaution, if the icafk 

 happens to leak by the way, this will be at the peril 

 and lofe of the purchafer. If thefe wines be put into 

 double cafks, this px^cauiipn will have no better fuc- 

 cefs than the foregoing, and is expofed to the fame 

 rilque ; and thecaflcs of the befl vintages are a great 

 prejudice to the delicate wines, becaufe this gives, the 

 full fcope to the fpirits to evaporate, and of confe- 

 quence they will caufe a great diminution of the qua- 

 lity of the wine. :■ : ,1 

 It oug-ht to be brought in bottles from Boaune to 

 London : for this purpofe, fome agent who buys the 



..wines by order of the perfon, fhould be addrelTed to, 

 to draw it out into bottles, and to fend it in cafes to 

 England. . Thefe cafes being filled, need not be car- 

 ried by land above ninety miles to Auxerrfe, where they 

 may be embarked oh the river Yone, which pafTes in- 

 to the river Seine,, and from thence to Paris, and af- 

 terwards to Rouen, where are vefTels which pafs very 



often to London.":'&i(J4tit!-''^rV>^vr;\:.''' j . 



.The agents of Beaune would ^alfo be yery wellpleafed 



. to bottle the wine that they "were ordered to buy, 



provided their correfpondents would give orders for 



enough to make a carriage. As for example j if 



two or three perfons would join to give orders for a 



thoufand bottles, this would be a complete carriage -, 



and as thofe of Volnet draw their wines into bottles 



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at the end of December, a perfon that would have 

 five Wndfed bottles of_Qiafragne pr Nuis, ought to 



join yvith another that would have the like quantity. 

 The agent might bottle up thefe wuicsji year after, 

 the vintage, either more or lefs,. an4 the purchafers 

 mioht receive the wines of Burgundy exquifite and 

 delicious ; and in like, manner, all other wjnes that^ 

 they have a nlind to have. As to the price of the 

 wines of Beaune, Volnet, Pomard, ChafTagne, and 

 Nuis, it is pretty near equal, or at mpft. the difference 

 is not very great. . :A queue of Volnet wine contains 

 four hundred eighty Paris pints, which, will make 

 five hundred bottles, and \yiU.co(t in the country, 



,fome yeijrs ten, twelve, fourteen, or eighteen, and 

 at molt twenty pounds fterling.-' The: carriage may 



, cofl: to Calais twelve or thirteen livres, and after- 

 ward from Calais to London a very fmall matter ; fo 

 that taking the years one with another, the dearcft 

 wmes of Burgundy, except that of Chambertin, which 

 is the deareft, >yould fcarce, in London, fland in 

 fourteen or fifteen fols a bottle, the cufloms not being 



, reckoned in. 



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/ rThe deiicatenefs of the tafte of Grapes is not always 

 a certain proof of their goodnefs for making wine ; 



. , it is hot always with thefe Grapes, fo agreeable to the 



.; ' tafte, that the befl wines are made : we fhould not be 

 , furprifed, that our wines are not the mofl ^exquifite, 



.' fince we do notobferve any rule in. the choice of the 

 Grapes, which ought to be done. , 



It is certain, that the juice of Grapes of different 

 kinds, cannot but produce aconfufed mixture, which 

 fuffers divers alterations in the cafks, by the different 

 fermentations, which the fulphureous particles of the 

 Grapes excite there i by which, they juiTerthemfclves 



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to be very eifily opened at the approach" of hear. 

 This is v/hat happens to wines which haveb'een made 

 of a mixture of many kinds of v/ild Grapes. Expe- 

 rience informs us, that wine drawn from fuch Grapes 

 is very fubjeft to ferment and grow foul, as foon as 

 the heats of the fpring begin to approach ; which 

 doesnot happen in the winter, when the coldnefs of 

 the air holds it, as it were, bound and embarralTed 

 by the fulphureous particles of the wine. It is the 

 fame thing in the juice of the Grapes called Clarctos, 

 Plans, Eltrans, Pignalcts, &c. when they are mino-- 

 . led in too' great a quantity with theothei-s. The com- 

 .. mon fault of our wine is, that they cannot be kept 

 the year throughout -, they are apt to grow foul, or 

 'turn, as it is called, upon the l6afl tranfporn 

 The greateft part of our citizens believe it to be the 

 fault of the foil, principally the vineyards' planted in 

 the places where the bottom of the foil is plafler or 

 tranfparent flone, which is the cafe of all that ex- 

 tent of ground, which begins from R. P. Capucins, 

 as far as Aguilles, which they commonly call Pay- 

 blank, i. e. white country. But how many vineyards 

 have we planted in different foils, that are fubjc6t to 

 the fame vice ? It is generally agreed, that the foil 

 which theycall gris [gray,] is the befl for vineyards ; 

 neverthelefs it is found, that the' quarter of Molieres, 

 of Repentance de Barret, and of Mohtaguez, are not 

 : exempt from this vice. I am' of opinion, that it pro- 

 ceeds from the mixture of too great a quantity of dif- 

 ferent forts of Grapes ; I cannot deny, after experi- 

 ence, but the nature of the foil, the culture, and the 

 dung they ufe, contributes very much to this vice, 

 , .which is what I fhall hereafter examine into/* rr t 

 , Therefore it is necelTary to know, what Grapes are 

 ;..fit to make good wine, that maybe in a condition 

 to be kept without being foul or turning, and ho^ to 



;make it.'-;M o; ::t:-;::r~> Sfo:^ tr; *: ^ ;:rt v.ls v-^nT 

 -It is very true, that a perfon cannot'make from "one 

 vineyard a great quantity of wine, that fhall be at the; 

 .fame time good in quality.' A vineyard ought to be 

 .* planted on thofe high grounds or hills, which ar^ex- 

 ■ pofed either to the fouth or fouth welh ■■ "* 



. And the foil ought to be a fort of brown, or approach- 

 ing to it. Thofe which we call Arpielo, Malaufene, 

 and Saveon, are foils which are fcarce proper to nou- 

 rifh flocks that will produce Grapes for making ^ood 

 ^:ri\vine.u.The vineyards which are round about the 

 Peres Auguflins Reformez, commonly called Saint 

 Pierre, are planted in a foil of Saveon aforefaid, very 

 ;:\!nfit for producing Grapes of a delicate reliih, or for 



' making good v/\nt.M:c £:^'^^j/o^ idil m:^ki >.^ 

 /-., The entrance into the territory of Tholonet is,"for 

 t the moft part, a foil which our country people call 

 .; i. Malaufene ; and alfo the wines that they produce are 

 .■■ none of the befl. ■ ■-/ K — •■^: u 



.^ Thofe Grapes ought to be chofen, which grow upon 

 flocks that are planted in a foil fomewhat rocky. >' 

 As to the culture it is certain, that good vvine cannot 

 be drawn from Grapes that have too much nourifh- 

 ment, and' of which the fap has not attained the Teafl 



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-' degree of concoftion or ripenefs. ■ ■ ■ 



■. Thofe which we call Ollieros, which are conimonly 



. dunged, and which they cultivate with pains, give a 



.. great quantity of Grapes ; but their great nourifhment 



'< is an obflacle to their making good wine/'^ Thofe 



,v which we call open vineyards, are to be preferred to 



them. 



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We ought to pi-efer the Grapes of old vineyards to 



. thofe oryoiing ones. The proper vineyards for mak- 



: ino- good wine, are thofe which have been planted 



twenty-five or thirty years ; the older they are, the 



more 'proper they are for making good wine; and 



till the vineyard has been made feven or eight years, 



good wine ought not to be expected from it. , . 



,, As to the choice of Grapes, we ought to mix fome 



; of the befl forts that we have. Thefe kinds are, of 



the white Grapes, the Aragnan, Roudeillat, Pafeau 



Blanc, Eflrani, Yni, and Aubre. Of the black, the 



Catalan, Bouteillan, Uni Negre. The muft' that is 



.drawn from thefe Grapfes ought tg ferment in thenar 



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