V 



at Icaft three weeks, when the hufl^s muft be fepa- 

 raced from the muft. 



It ought to be noted, that the proportion which fhould 

 be kept between the quantityof thefe kinds is different, 



according to the dcfign which every one has of keep- 

 ing thefe wines. 



The black Grapes, and above all the Catalan, and 

 the Boutcllan, fhould make more than half the quan- 

 tity of all the reft. 



Thofe that defire to have a wine of a deeper red, 

 Ihould take a greater quantity of black Grapes, and 

 ought to let them ftand a longer time in the vat, if 

 they have occafion to change the wine from time to 

 time. 



They make white wine of the Grapes they call Au- 

 bier, Uni, Roudeillat, Aragnan, Pignolet. If they 

 would have wine proper to keep in the heat of fum- 

 mer, they ought to ufe none but Uni, Aubier, and 

 Aragnan. 



Nobody is ignorant, that we have wines made of but 

 one fpecies of Grapes ■, as that of Mufcat wine, and 

 claret : for the firft they make ufe of Mufcats, as well 



white as red ; for the fecond, of the Grapes they call 

 Clareto. 



They keep thefe Grapes with us, during the whole 

 winter, and fome part of the fpring, hanging upon 

 a beam in a room. All forts of Grapes are not fit 

 for keeping ; thofe kinds that are called Pendoulans, 

 or Rin de panfe, le Land de Poiierre, le Verdau, are 

 the beft for this purpofe j the Aragnan and Eftrani 



cellcnt wines from Campania, w^hich is now called 

 Terre de Labour, a province of the kingdom of Na- 

 ples. Thofe of the other parts of Italy did not come 

 near thefe laft in point of excellency. The Falcrnian 

 Gauranian, and Mafiic, v/ere made from vineyards 

 planted on the hill round about Mondragon, a'c the 

 foot of which palfes the river Garigliano, antienil/ 

 called the Iris. The Cxcuban, which differs nothing 

 from the Falcrnian but in age •, (this is that which the 

 Latins call the length of time which the wines are 

 able to preferve their ftren^th,) was produced in the 

 Terre de Labour, as the Fundanum and Amvclum 

 were near Gaeta, the Suellanum of Sueifa Pometia, a 

 maritime territory of the kingdom of Naples j the 

 Colenum about the town of the Terre de Labour- 

 and alfo many others, with which that province fur- 

 nifties the city of Rome. 



Thefe wines, which are very excellent in their na- 

 ture, acquired rather by age than by art, a degree of 

 perfection to which none of the other common wines 

 of Italy can attain. 



The laft, which the Greeks call Oligophora, and the 

 Latins Tenuia and Paucitera, are very eafily prefervcd 

 by the cold, or rather by a frefti air, and eroweacrer 



by h 



eat. 



Alio thofe which the Greeks call Polypho- 



Vinofa, become more vigorous 



1 



Mufcat 



Uni ; the Barbaroux, and the Efpaguin, the Taulier, 

 and the Roudeillat, will not keep fo long. They 

 ought to be gathered full ripe, and before the rains, 

 and none to be chofen but thofe that grow upon old 

 ilocks. 



They alfo preferve thofe Grapes to make what the 

 "Latins call UvasPaflie; not becaufc dried in the 

 fun, but becaufc they are expofed to the fun hang- 



A, 



*> 



'* 



mg ; they call them in French dried Grapes -, the 

 provincials caill them Panfes. They make ufe of 

 none but Grapes called Rin de Panfe or Pendulem, 

 or of Rin Panfe Mufcat, to make the beft Panfe. 

 Th6)r alfo fnake ufe of the Grapes which are called 

 AragnanV which is the rfioft common Panfe in the 

 nottelt places, v-?:^-^ 



They alfo make ufe of tjie Grapes called Roudeillats, 

 and the Plan Eftrani. 



ra, Multife 



and fpirituous by the heat. 

 The Grapes of which the firft are made, abound in 

 crude phlegm ; the fulphureous parts of the muft are 

 more dilated. The laft, on the contrary, are drawn 

 from Grapes that are more ripe; of which the muft 

 or the fulphureous parts which compofe it, are con- 

 centred, and fixed by the eVciporation of the humid 

 parts which dilate it. To this may be added, the 

 abundance of the fulphur of thefe laft, which is the 

 caufe of the true ftrength of thefe wines •, and it is by 

 being opened that they acquire this fpirituoufnefs. Ic 

 Was only to procure this opening, that the ancients 

 invented the preparing thefe wines in the manner I am 

 going to exprefs. 



^--: 



* 



that in the year 6^^^ from the foun- 

 dation of Rome, they lodged tiieir tuns full of wine 

 in places covered, whicK were expofed to the north, 

 - fuch as we now call cellars. 



On the contrary, thofe cafks which were filled with 

 -vigorous and fpirituous wine, fuch as Polyphorum, 

 were fet in an open place, and expofed to the rain and 

 fun, and all the injuries of the weather. Thofe 

 which contained wines of lefs ftrength, were kept 

 under cover. Thofe which were full of a weak wine^ 

 were put into a hollow place and covered with earth. 



book 



III. and in 



The Grape which we call the 

 Land de Pouerre, is not made ufe of with us for this 

 purpofe, although I have been informed, that they 

 are ufed in hot countries near the fea coafts. They 

 make their Panfes with us, after the following man- 

 ner ; they tie the Grapes in a ftring, and put them 

 upon another ftring at both ends ; then they plunge 



them intb a boiling lye, in which they mingle a little ..., , 



oil, until the Grapes fhrivel, and afterwards expofe I three years in 'thefe cold places j bufif they let thcni 

 them to the fun for fix or feven days ; and then they I lie there too long, they grew eager, if they did not 



the Treatife of Vines, that is afcribed to him, re- 

 marks very much to the purpofe. That the wines of 

 'firft ■ " " 



lay them in rows in cafes, preffing them gently. 

 Wine is different in virtue and delicacy of tafte. 

 The difference proceeds, for the moft part, from the 

 different natures of the Grapes with which it is made, 

 the. different degree of their maturity, and the diver - 

 fity pf the foil where the vineyards are planted ; and 

 alfp .^he different culture of the vineyards, and the pre- 

 paration of the wini^ ; to which may be added, the 

 difi'erence of the climates, according to the greater or 

 lefi!er degree of heat. 



The Romans, as we learn from Pliny, were very cu- 

 rious in fearching after the moft excellent wines : all 

 their differences confifte^ in the places wliere they 

 were made 5 as the Setinum, Cascubum, Falernum', 

 Gauranum, Fauftianum, Albanum, Surrentinum, and 

 Mafficum, which were the moft delicate wines of 

 Italy in the time of Pliny. Among thewines of Greece 



remove them to warmer places, as they ufed to prac- 



Romans had anv knowledge of 



it ; and it was by this means that the people of Afia» 



and 



of making wine keep fo long. 



The moft ancient epocha of the preparat 



.ibout 



the year of Rome 6^ 3. This author who lived a long 

 time after in Vefpafian*s time, aflijres us, that thefe 



been 



and that they grew thick to the confiftence of honey, 

 fo that they could not be drank without mixing them 



with water. 



Qr 



, l^flDian 

 tafte ' carri 



Maronean 



luxu 



us thacof Mount Libanus, and others, as mavbe 

 in Pliny.: vO' 



vetuftatecraffefcit, i.e. by how much more generous 

 the wine is, by fo much the more it grows thick by 



The fame that is fecn in our days in the Spa- 

 n fli wines. 



age. 



wines 



the 



o> 



book of Refoiration 



ii"» » .->*■* ■» ■ •- 



that the Romans, bad their 



which being inclofed in large ffafks, and fufpendecJ 



-■r- 



* - 



of 



■^ c 



'i V 



ration 



.X 



