64 
HERALD 
the 24th of June, the Veranito de San Juan, the rains continue for eight months, until 
the end of December, and in Southern Darien and some parts on the Atlantic side they 
last almost the whole year. During this time fogs, calms, and light variable ^nnds prevail, 
and tlic air is loaded Avith so much moisture that leather cleaned in the morning is densely 
covered with mould in the evening. The temperature does not vary more than from 75° to 
87° Fahr., but still perspiration being impeded, the temperature feels hot and close, and to 
a European some of the nights are ahnost insufferable. Tired in the extreme, he throws 
himself on his couch, but no sleep closes his eyes. Everything is hot and uncomfortable, 
and the pillow is repeatedly turned over to get the coolest side. In the Arctic regions the 
traveller, having only a limited supply of food, and labouring under great bodily privations, 
is constantly dreaming about gorgeous feasts and tables covered with delightful viands ; in 
tropical countries, when suffering from heat and languor, he is involuntarily reminded of 
refreshing breezes, frosty mornings, and the cool bed that used to receive his weary limbs. 
Towards the end of December the violent rains diminish in frequency, and with the 
commencement of the new year the north-west wind sets in. An immediate change folloAvs. 
The air becomes pure and refreshing, the sky blue and serene, hardly a cloud is to be seen, 
p 
and there being but little moistm-e in the atmosphere, the heat, though ranging between 75° 
and 94° Falu*., is less felt. Scarcely has dawn commenced when everybody is in action. 
Natm*e stands invigorated by night's repose, and heavy drops of dew hang on every leaf. 
Stately palms wave their foliage in the morning air, and gay-coloured humming-birds, parrots, 
and macaws diffuse animation over the scene. This time is delightful, but of short dura- 
tion. Towards nine o'clock the heat begins to be felt, and that lassitude for which tropical 
regions are so well known seizes everything. The leaves droop, the wild pigeons cease to utter 
their notes, and the inhabitants seek shelter in the shade of thch dwellings. At noon a 
profound silence prevails, only broken now and then by some reptile gliding among the dead 
leaves of the forest, or by the solitary tapping of the woodpecker. Not a breath stirs the air, 
the whole atmosphere trembles from the excessive heat, and the thermometer of Fahrenheit, 
when exposed to the full influence of the scorching rays, frequently rises to the height of 
124 degrees. In the afternoon the heat becomes less oppressive, breezes spring up, and 
the cool air of the evening calls forth a new Ufe. The forests are now glittering with 
myriads of fireflies, crickets are chanting their merry tunes, and here and there are groups 
of people chatting and amusing themselves. But nothing can exceed the beauty of the scene 
when the full moon rises, shedding its silvery light over the broad foHagc of the tropics. 
Whatever may have been the fatigue of the day, whatever the body may have suffered from 
heat and languor, all is forgotten when this spectacle presents itself. Such a night baffles 
description, it is the quintessence of equinoctial life. 
A country so much visited by heavy rains naturally abounds in rivers ; their number 
cannot fall short of 200, and during the wet season not a mile of land can be traversed 
without crossing at least five or six periodical streams. Most of the rivers have deltas, 
