232 



Mexican Motes 



[ZOE 



to life again. The way has been entirely through impenetrable 

 thickets, so far as can be seen in the dim night, for all stages have 

 a habit of starting at three or four o'clock in the morning, even for 

 only a short journey. At break of day, among the first sights and 

 sounds of the morning, were a dozen large birds (parrots) in a leaf- 

 less treetop, screaming vociferously. Orchids (epiphytes) hang 

 upon the limbs of bushes by the roadside. A dozen or two large 

 orioles in yellow and black plumage form a charming picture; they 

 look almost large enough for crows. 



About sunrise we come to some cornfields in tassel at midwinter. 

 Thatched huts become more frequent, and cultivated fields more 

 plenty, till at nine o'clock we reach the river. It is in time of high 

 water, and there is no bridge; the river cannot be forded, and there 

 is no regular ferry-boat as usually a ford is practicable. So we 

 wait to consider. Casting about, we see a hut near by with a bar 



and bottles in sight. Mescal bottles 



ah, this mescal is the ruin 



of the nation! It appears to combine the evils of whisky, rum, 

 beer and brandy all mixed into one infernal Mexican calamity. But 

 the bar also suggests that perhaps coffee may be had there. We go 

 in at a side door and are in a thatched hut, floorless except for the 

 earth, the steep roof black with smoke and supported by tree trunks. 

 A square table stands near by, and the women bring a chair, a box 

 and other things to sit on, and seat us at the table. At the other 

 side of the room is a bank of earth like a long, low table, upon 

 which is a charcoal fire; there the cooking is done. The girls put 

 water on to boil in an earthen vessel, and then put in black, over- 

 burned coflfee; then pour out a pint-bowlful for each of the pas- 

 sengers, and offer damp brown sugar, but no milk, for milk is never 

 used in the interior. A little sweet bread or cake is also given to 

 each, and our morning meal is soon made. The charge is one real. 

 Pendmg the completion of the breakfast, my companion had discov- 

 ered that the smoky, black hut sheltered one of the handsomest 

 girls m Mexico, and it required sometime to get him outside again. 

 Then we went to the river; it is wide and deep and rapid. After 

 resting a while we are taken over in a " canoa," or hollowed log, 

 nearly five feet across and forty feet long, but without seats. So we 

 squat down along the sides, holding on to the gunwales of the tip- 

 ping craft, then the boatman runs it up stream some distance to 

 take advantage of the strong current, and then vigorous poling and 



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