1 
PHILIPPINE HATS. 109 
Lucban 
MEANS OF, DISTINGUISHING THE PRINCIPAL KINDS OF PHILIFFINE HATS. 
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The following, arranged somewhat in the form of a scientific key, 
aims to give what are in practice, the chief differentiating characters, 
A. Hats, not freaks, with curving brims and rounded crowns." 
Strands circular or nearly circular or flattened by pressure, but not obtained 
by the division of wider materials, their margins therefore rounded. 
Strands usually less than 1 mm in width, with few (usually 1 or 2) in- 
conspicuous longitudinal lines. . 
White or pa:le-pinkish or yellowish Buntal 
Open weave 
Close weave - Baliuag 
Brown to black : -- (au old and rare type of) Nito 
Strands or some of them usually greenish, usually wider, with several con- 
spicuous longitudinal lines - Ticog or tayoctayoc 
Strands flat or nearly so, obtained by the division of wider materials, their 
margins therefore showing more or less evidence of cutting » 
Strands appearing as if varnished, the outer layers of tissue often cracking, 
ereenish-yellow to brownish, always coarse Pandan (bangcoan, 
® "^ balangot)" 
Strands dull to silky in appearance, of all degrees of fineness. 
Strands with very evident cross-veins Bun-lea 
Plaited before weaving 
Not plaited O'^^i'^^y S"^" 
Strands without evident cross-veins. • 
Hats, brown or black (natural color) \° 
Hats not brown or black or in ratUn or cheap grades of bun-midnb 
with an admixture of light-brown strands, or in bamboo often dyed, 
but very seldom the entire hat. 
Hats grayish- to bluish-green except when bleached, the ^trands^not 
divided as regards thickness 
Hats white to pink or very pale yellow, the strands divided a. regards 
thicknGss 
Hats silky or satiny in appearance, with slightly darker ^«l«^^t'>^^ 
either of the following two ■" ^ 
Hats white or very pale-pink, with a glossy *PP«^''*''^''' ''"^^;;;^"„; 
less 30 than rattan ......-.-— 
Hats similar to bamboo, but never with any trace of p.nk, .n cheap 
grades .only with admixture of Hght-brow., ^al^.s ^of^^rather 
dull appearance -*''** 
2» 
SO 
The "block -hats" of Mr. Miller's paper. , t ^i .^ in rritical 
The nature of the margins can usually be determined by the eje, in critical 
cases slight magnification is desirable. 
"See pages 104, 119, 120. ,.„ ,. ,^ JiofincniUh 
- The bamboo ^nd Calasiao hats are much the most difficult to J^stingu h 
but in practice the latter are usually told ^vith case by the q"'^"^ ^'^^ "J "'^j 
powder placed upon them in the process of finishing. The browu.sh olor o 
some strands is considered an imperfection, and is not found in hats of better 
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grade. See page 116. 
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