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pole from the front only. Where the crest is narrow the houses are built at 
the edge, so that, entering on the level in front, the elevation at the back 
accords with the slope of the hill. 
Strict etiquette demands that your name and business be shouted out by 
the most sonorous voiced Papuan at the point of ingress into the plantation, 
before intrusion on their domain, for the information of the owners. You 
ave then received by the inhabitants, both men and women, all standing or 
sitting unarmed on the balcony, and after friendly greeting and distribution 
of tobacco one passes on in peace. This custom is described in the account 
of the ‘ Etna’ expedition for the northern part of the Arfak (8, 74), and by 
van Oosterzee (17, 1002 & 1004) on the occasion of his expedition to the 
Angi lakes, in the Sjari region. 
From the third ridge on leaving the Soedomi River, we looked down on 
to the Momi again, and descended to it over secondary slopes overgrown with 
Rubus rosefolius, the fruit dirty-red in colour, hard, and like a small rasp- 
berry in shape, just as insipid but very different in appearance to the large 
scarlet, strawberry-like fruit of the same species in the uplands of British 
N. Borneo. A boggy bamboo-thicket lined the bed of the river, which we 
crossed, to camp for the third night on the other side in an old “ kebun.” 
Whole families of the hill people came down to visit us, even with babies in 
arms, each party, after wandering round gloating over the various sights of 
the camp, building its own shelter, to which they retired to cook their meal 
and spend the night. I distributed tobacco to the men, women, and bigger 
children, and rice to the babies, of which the very tiniest demanded its quota. 
Some of these people came on with us to the lakes, as others had done from 
Serao—a source of considerable relief to the coast carriers, many of whom 
were getting tired from the steady climbing. These mountain people are 
splendid carriers, but it is next to impossible to get them to go down to the 
coast. 
The next day, proceeding through secondary forest up a lateral spur, old 
plantations opened out at 5000’. At about 6000’ a couple of bushes of the 
copper-coloured Rhododendron letum, red when older, one of the glories of 
the Arfak, heralded the approach of the mountain collecting-grounds, which 
IT alone intended to work. The korano of Wariap and his grandson Waspiri 
pointed out, on the southern flanks of the spur near the valley below, two 
houses of the “Orang Jatoe,” or bad people, noted head-hunters according 
to my informants, Waspiri adding that the victims were decapitated at the 
house observed from the Serao ridge, the resulting trophies being brought up 
here. With glasses the people could be seen standing on a rise near by, while 
in front of the house, in a cleared space, twelve men were sitting, in two 
rows of six each, singing some barbaric chant, accompanying their song of 
defiance with reiterative movements of arms and legs, in Polynesian fashion. 
Certainly, unlike all the other mountain people, they did not attempt to 
