364. VOYAGE OF H.M.S. HERALD. 
In ascending towards the top of the sierra the temperature had 
gradually decreased, but fortunately not fallen to the freezing point. 
On proceeding, however, everything partook of a wintry aspect, and I 
became soon aware that my principal harvest was over. At 8,000 feet 
the Evergreen Oak had disappeared, the Fir being the only tree. Of 
herbage, nothing remained but brown leaves; and the little streams, 
which at a lower elevation gave variety to the sylvan scene, were 
covered with ice one to two inches thick. The nights were bitterly 
cold, and in vain did I try to get a few hours' sleep: it was im- 
possible, even near the fire. I continued my journey over large plains, 
passing Cayottes, Salto, Llano grande, Navios, Los Miembres, and 
Rio Chico, all miserable huts, at which the traveller obtains, at high 
. charges, tortillas de maiz for himself, and a little Indian corn to feed 
his half-starved animals. To cross these elevated plains during this 
season is not without danger. The sky, always of an azure-blue, 
suddenly becomes cloudy, snow begins to fall, and in a short time the 
traveller is prevented from proceeding. If he is near a hut, his life 
may be saved ; if not, which is very often the case—as human habita- 
tions are from twenty to forty miles distant from each other—he and 
his animals must perish miserably. Many have been lost in this way. 
I may consider myself fortunate. When leaving the rancho of Navios 
the heaven was overcast, and hardly had I descended into the plains of 
Durango when a severe snow-storm discharged itself over the sum- 
mits of the Sierra Madre. 
It would be well were these difficulties the only ones to combat; 
but there are others of a more serious nature. Nearly in every mile 
of the road you observe one or more heaps of stones, on the top of 
which are wooden crosses. Each of these monuments shows the spot 
where people have been slain by robbers. In some parts they are 
. . so numerous that the places look almost like burying-grounds. In 
. Other countries, if people meet on a solitary road they are pleased— 
* Similis simili gaudet;" but here, directly parties descry each other, 
they count forces, and prepare for an attack. In silence they draw 
. near, the one measuring the other with suspicious eyes till somebody 
makes the usual salutation, and they proceed to their respective desti- 
nations. It is a lamentable state of society when you must look 
upon every fellow-creature with distrust, and can never move a step 
without being armed. 
*. 
