240 DR. HOOKER’S MISSION TO INDIA. 
Antarctic Islands, afforded convincing proof of the prevalent 
humidity of the atmosphere, which is due to the vicinity of the 
Atlantic and the isolation of the heights which intercept the moist 
vapours. The Cork-Oaks were also hoary with Ramalina and 
Evernia, and some Mosses, mixed with amazing quantities of Poly- 
podium vulgare; these trees reminded me of the Apple-trees in 
Normandy, wanting, however, the Misseltoe. 
This Portugal is an almost desolate and comparatively uninha- 
bited land, not so much from the faults of the Government as the 
character of the people. Often have I wondered how it came to 
pass, that a nation once so famous, and from whom sprang the 
precursors of discovery in both worlds, should have fallen so 
suddenly and so low. But it was Goxp alone that roused their 
energies: the Portuguese are naturally dirty, indolent, and im- 
moral. It is hard to say what will become of them. The land 
is rich and productive, the climate delicious, and the people 
do not possess that warlike and romantic temperament which 
continually causes their neighbours, the Spaniards, to be m hot 
water. I have seen the Portuguese in Madera, the Cape de Verds, 
Brazil, and now at home, and they are alike everywhere, and I never 
wish to come in their way again. 
To return to the rocky hill I was climbing, it was very barren, 
except of Lichens, and dwarf bushes of Quercus, Ilex Suber and coc- 
cifer, some shrubby Labiate, a few Linarie, and such-like herbs. 
The autumn sun had scorched everything ; but little shoots might 
be seen sprouting forth, indicating an early spring. Part of the 
hill is terraced for the use of the inmates of the Palace, and planted 
with multitudes of Geraniums, but little else. The top is a pile 
of huge granite blocks, capped with a small turreted castle, built 
apparently for ornament. After we had partaken of a fine dinner, 
provided by Lord Dalhousie, we returned to Lisbon, galloping 
all the way; for the little Spanish horses refused to make any halt, 
except at an hotel situated close to the place where the aqueduct 
from Cintra to Lisbon crosses the road. It must be allowed that 
the Portuguese excel in aqueducts; both this and the one I had 
seen at Rio are very noble structures. At the part where we 
