LISBON TO GIBRALTAR. 241 
arrived, fourteen tall arches, each about one hundred feet high, 
spanned a broad valley, and their projection against the blue star- 
lit sky had a fine effect. An echo here produced fourteen distinct 
reverberations ; not from the fourteen arches, I expect, but from 
the air striking upon different parts of the one beneath which we 
passed. 
I regretted not returning to Lisbon by the way we had left it, 
for I wanted to look again at the church of Belem, where 
Columbus dreamed that an angel directed him to the discovery of 
the New World; and where Vasco de Gama and his successors 
offered up, some their prayers, and others thanksgivings (to Saint 
Nicholas, by the way,) on the occasion of their voyages to, or 
return from, the East Indies. 
The part of Lisbon to which we returned looked magnificent 
by night. Grand squares with piles of white buildings, six and 
eight stories high, glanced bright in the moon-beams, and so did 
the broad streets of palace-like houses, faced with gardens and 
gilded palisades. The heat of the day was over; the evil smells of 
the city were somewhat dissipated ; the dogs had gone to kennel ; 
and a few drunken sailors were the only disturbers of the peace. 
We were rather late for the Opera, which is vaunted, by those who 
know no better, as one of the largest and best in Hurope. The 
house is certainly enormous; but the orchestra is very poor, the 
Opera (Lucrezia Borgia) was ill performed, both as to acting, 
singing, and stage effect; and worst of all, the boxes, pit, and 
gallery were filthy alike, and the whole place so noisome, that 
I found it impossible to sit out the piece, and I slipped away 
quickly and returned to the “Sidon.” The following morning we 
sailed for Gibraltar, whence I now write. 
Altogether, Lisbon and its environs disappointed me; though 
there were parts of the city on which I gazed with deep interest. 
The historical associations are numerous, and of a kind peculiarly 
striking tome. There is the port, whence sailed the discoverers 
of the greater part of India and of the passage thither, by the 
Cape of Good Hope. The very church and convent, where public 
Prayers were offered by Vasco de Gama and his.brave associates, 
