242 DR. HOOKER’S MISSION TO INDIA. 
are not only still standing, but are proudly pointed out by the 
inhabitants. Many curious remains of Moorish architecture exist 
in different parts of the city: heavy buildings of white lime- 
stone or marble, with long, high doors, and arches that expand 
above the middle and then taper upwards to a point. The lower 
stories of these edifices are generally handsome, their floors and 
walls of marble; but they, and indeed the entire city, wear such 
an air of dilapidation, and the customs of the people are so hor- 
ribly filthy, that it is a penance, instead of a pleasure, to peram- 
bulate the streets. Gilded columns and porticos, and gay painting, 
do not compensate for the practice of throwing out every kind of 
dirt and offal before the doors. 
It took us two days to sail from Lisbon to the entrance of the 
Mediterranean Sea. A strong current carried us on, with the 
shores of Europe and Africa on either hand, that of Africa being 
the loftiest, from the range of the Lesser Atlas, which runs along 
the kingdom of Morocco. Rounding Tarif Point, we opened 
the Bay and Rock of Gibraltar, the former bounded everywhere 
by bare hills, save at the point where the noble fortress projects 
its bold front into the blue Mediterranean. Gibraltar Rock is 
a peninsula, running north and south: it terminates to the south 
in Europa Point, which descends in steps or ridges, whereon 
stand houses and gardens; while northward, the bluff cliff, 
upwards of a thousand feet high, looks back to Spain and shows 
its three rows of teeth to the mother country. By these rows of 
teeth, I mean the parallel galleries hewn in the face of the rock, 
like long caverns, furnished with ranges of cannons, which 
grimly project through holes in the sides of the cliff. . 
- We lay off the New Mole and took in coals. Southward we | 
looked over the Mediterranean to Apes’ Hill, on the African coast. 
The view was enlivened with many of the little latteen-sailed boats 
which figure in all views of the Mediterranean, and are here 
Rock-scorpions. We landed and walked to Europa Point, among 
barracks, soldiers, guns and sentries innumerable, and ascend r 
the western face of the rock, which has a very steep slope of 459, 
covered with asscrubby vegetation, consisting chiefly i 
