316 DR. HOOKER’S MISSION TO INDIA. 
for is the bracing air and far more wholesome, though less at- 
_tractive, beauties of an English country scene. These are nice 
places to see, but not to dwell in, as the pale yellow, and all but 
sickly faces of the English children too plainly tell. Mosquitoes 
and sand-flies are rife, and so are detestable leeches, that get 
inside one’s boot. Snakes, too, are said to be frequent, though 
I saw none of them. 
The character of the natives is treacherous, and they are consi- 
dered to be untrustworthy in their most trifling dealings, but they 
look happy, cheerful, and contented. 
Our party was here divided into three. Lord and Lady Dalhousie 
went to a small Government residence (Government-House is at 
Kandy), Fane and Courtenay to the inn, whilst the Military Com- 
mandant, Major Cuthbert, kindly accommodated me for the night 
and day, or part of the two days we spent there. I had one long 
walk with Gardner (who had been waiting three weeks for my 
arrival) in the afternoon of Friday, another after daylight on 
Saturday morning (for Gardner and I sat up chatting all night), 
and a third after breakfast. It then came on to rain in true tro- 
pical style, as if it would beat the roofs in, accompanied by heavy 
thunder and lightning playing about us, as we sate taking tiffin in 
the open verandah, but neither Mrs. Cuthbert nor her little girls 
paid the very smallest attention to the storm, so habituated are all 
here to the strife of elements. I was very glad to have the oppor- 
tunity of presenting Mr. Gardner to Lord Dalhousie before our 
departure. At 3 o'clock, ».w., we embarked under a heavy 
shower, which drenched the poor soldiers drawn out to salute 
us, and we started forthwith for Madras. 
* v x E: x * 
We arrived in Madras roads last Wednesday, at 11 o'clock, P-M. 
There is neither bay nor harbour, only a wide expanse of anchoring 
ground, like Yarmouth roads, but wanting all protection to 
seaward in the shape of sands; so that a constant rolling sea 
renders landing very difficult. Soon after our arrival, the 
Governor, His Excellency the Marquis of Tweeddale (who as you 
