258 MR. PLANT’S EXCURSION 
made my first acquaintance with the monarch of the forests—a lion was 
crouching within a few yards of my path: with nothing but small shot 
in the gun, I knew that the least hesitation might prove serious. This 
intelligence rendered a move next day indispensable, or the loss of an 
ox or two would be the probable result. Consequently next morning 
we entered the Zulu country. We had now about eighty miles before | 
us entirely uninhabited, and as the objects of my journey were not 
likely to be met with on the road-side, it became improbable that we 
should fall in with any party of traders. Great care was necessary to 
keep an accurate account of our course and to guard against any waste 
of provisions, for Kaffirs are the most improvident people I ever met 
with. They will continue eating while a morsel remains, though there 
was a certainty of starving the next day. "They can however go without 
food for an amazing length of time, and, unlike most other savages, are 
not passionately fond of intoxicating drinks: a miserly cupidity is their 
ruling passion ; they will drink anything given them, but they buy none. 
I have often seen them' drink vinegar and water under the name of 
“ Jualo” (Kaffir-grog), with all the gusto imaginable—it costs nothing. 
On entering this range of country my intention was to proceed 
through it, as near to the sea as possible; and, from its general cha- 
racter and the fact that few if any had ever gone over it before, I had 
great expectations of meeting with new things. A few, very few nights’ 
experience showed this route to be impracticable, The number of 
hyenas and tigers seemed to increase with each march, until they grew 
so bold that our fires would not keep them off, and three or four volleys 
were often necessary to drive them back. We therefore retraced our 
steps to the road, and the passage of two or three minor rivers brought 
us to the Umlilassi, a noble stream, and decidedly the largest I have 
yet seen. From its size and proximity to the sea, we supposed it to be 
a tidal river, but night approaching, and wood being scarce on our side, 
we determined to push over at once. My sumpter-ox refused to take 
the water; not all the blows or jabbering of the Kaffirs could induce 
him to enter. It came on a cold rain, and as the rest were across, 
there was nothing left but to unload and lead him over in the middle 
of the stream. The water was breast high ; the ox grew frightened, and 
with a plunge was bearing his leader off down the stream to the sea, 
so that the loss of both man and ox seemed inevitable, and to wade 
after them could not be done quick enough even if the depth of water 
