'298 SCRAPS, &c. 



of celebrity. We were then led through the state rooms to the left of the 

 hall, which were for the most part lined with immense pier-glasses, and then 

 proceeded to the private apartments to the right of the hall, formerly occupied 

 by Josephine. These, although generally on a grand scale, and superbly 

 arranged, possessed all the convenience and snugness in some parts which 

 distinguish first-rate English dwellings. All these were on the ground-floor, 

 raised many feet above the level of the gardens. The bed-rooms and sitting- 

 rooms for the officers and servants were, as at Blenheim and in other princely 

 buildings in England, on the upper floor. 



The old conciergo, who accompanied us with all the garrulity of his time 

 of life, and all the enthusiasm of devotion to his former mistress, gave us 

 many little anecdotes of her amiable manners and benevolence. " Ah ! 

 Messieurs," said he, "nous ne verrons jamais une femme comme elle," 

 She possessed every virtue and won all hearts. When she left us the last 

 time, we had a presentiment that we should never behold her again. There 

 was not a dry eye in the chateau. I, who had enjoyed for many years par- 

 ticular marks of her kindness, felt that I was about to lose my only support 

 on earth. With her I lost every hope. I am continued here by the Beau- 

 harnois family to take care of the premises ; but I now walk about these de- 

 solate rooms, oppressed by the recollections of those days when the presence 

 of our mistress threw a charm on all around, and the voice of love and grati- 

 tude to our benefactress resounded in and around, in every direction, this 

 once splendid domain. 



Thus conversing, we were conducted to a wing or pavilion of the building, 

 which is called the petit palais, separated from the main building by a space 

 of about fifty yards. It was here that Louis XV. retired with his favourite 

 mistresses, of whom we" saw many fine likenesses painted in the panels of a 

 long suite of rooms by Italian masters of the greatest eminence. On entering 

 the first apartments, we observed on a small marble table a little white dog, 

 so excellently preserved, that at first we thought it living. " This," said our 

 guide, " was the favourite of our late empress, who, at its death, gave parti- 

 cular orders for its preservation. It performed all manner of tricks, and ex- 

 cited the admiration of every one." 



The old man would willingly have entertained us many hours by his va- 

 rious details : but evening approached, and we were obliged to make our way 

 back to Evreux to dinner, for which a long walk had given us an appetite. 

 He hoped we should call again and see the gardens, which, although going 

 to ruin, are still very beautiful. He accepted a small present with much 

 thankfulness, and we quitted the fallen splendours of the place with many 

 sage reflections on the instability of human affairs, and on the singular fate 

 of the exalted woman who had shared for a while a throne which her talents 

 had helped to raise and adorn. 



We returned to Evreux by the forest road, and saw the extensive fish- 

 ponds which once teemed with carp, now choked with mud and weeds. 

 The woodman's stroke re-echoed through the woods, and struck upon our 

 ears as the knell of the departed splendour of the scene. 



