THE CLAM F1SIIKIMHS. 593 



practiced on the New Jersey coast at that time, when more of these clams seem to have been fur- 

 nished there than nowadays: 



" The clams are thoroughly washed before they are given over to the knives of the ' shellers,' 

 or 'openers,' as they are sometimes called. As many as two dozen shellers are at work at one 

 time, among whom are children, old persons, and, in fact, all who can handle a knife. These are 

 sealed round a large tub into which theuushelled clains are thrown promiscuously, while the shells 

 are deposited in a heap by themselves. The rapidity with which they are opened would astonish 

 a stranger to the business. They are not opened with the point of the knife, nor is the front of 

 the shell broken as is the case with oysters ; but the clam itself is adjusted to the edge of the knife 

 and forced open by striking it upon the edge .of the tub, or some other hard substance. Before 

 they are taken to market large quantities of them are attached to strings and sold in this way off 

 carts.'' 



lu Maryland and Virginia the soft clam, though abundant enough on suitable shores, is eaten 

 by the negroes almost alone and does not enter into trade at all. It is called " butterfish " and 

 "mannoze" or "uanninose," the last being corruptions of an Indian word. 



8. THE SOFT CLAM ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 



This mollusk has been transplanted to Californian waters during the past few years ; by acci- 

 deut apparently, being taken with the oyster seed which is annually sent in large quantities from 

 the Eastern States. It appears to have thriven very well, and to have multiplied so as to stock San 

 Francisco Bay with a good supply, succeeding in this respect where the oysters fail. I do not 

 possess accurate information on this matter, however, and would not speak positively. 



9. THE USES OF SOFT CLAMS. 



The ordinary method of cooking clams is by making them into a soup, or by the mixture of 

 various other ingredients forming a thick sort of broth known as chowder, which is a favorite dish 

 in the more northern States. Frying clams is also practiced in various ways, and Mr. Carley 

 aud other dealers in New York and Boston pickle them to a considerable extent. These pickles 



are used principally by ships, but in 1854 a large supply was seut to California. They are also 







salted like mackerel, but to a small extent. They are to be bought in the markets raw all the 

 year round ; and in New York they are always sold in "strings" of a dozen connected by a cotton 

 cord. In the spring, particularly, the region about Fulton market is crowded with clam vendors, 

 chiefly from Long Island and Staten Island, who come in wagons and retail their clams, both in 

 shell and by the string, with much chaffering aud clamor. Both these and the quahaugs are 

 also sold from baskets, wheelbarrows, aud crazy wagons, by the peripatetic vendors, whose pro- 

 longed howl "Cla-a-a-ams! fresh cla-a a-ins!!" is so well known in the suburban parts of the 

 city. In Newark I used to hear a song drawled out by these street merchants of mollusks which 

 would do well as the opening measures of a dirge. The larger part of those taken each year, 

 however, are used as bait, and something remains to be said in regard to the preparation of this. 

 Our fishermen very long ago learned that most carnivorous fishes, and those of the cod family in 

 particular, have a special fondness for the various species of Mya, the codfish of Newfoundland 

 Banks relying very largely for nourishment upon a species allied to our edible Mya arenaria. 

 The soft clam came at once into approved use, therefore, in shore fishing of almost all varieties, and 

 with other bait-mollusks, was carried farther and farther to sea as the fishing voyages lengthened. 

 The clams used iushore then, as now, were fresh ; and when, following their retreating prey, the 

 SEC. v, VOL. ii 38 



