COOK IN THE ANTARCTIC AND IN ALASKA 103 



the path to it blocked by glaciers, over the surface of which it must 

 be approached. To learn the chances of ascent a mountain's peak 

 was here climbed and careful observations made of the distant mass. 

 From the point of outlook the southern face and the eastern and 

 western ridges of the mountain could be clearly seen. 



As for the southern face, this was far from promising, it con- 

 sisting of a series of great cliffs above which the mountain was 

 heavily snow-bound. The eastern and western ridges were also 

 largely covered with snow, and each seemed broken by cliffs rising 

 like great walls. Ascent from this direction seemed hopeless, and 

 the only chance of finding a feasible route appeared to be one over 

 steep glaciers and snow fields between the snow-clad sides of Mount 

 McKinley and the neighboring Mount Foraker to the western or 

 northwestern ridge of the mountain. This had previously been 

 observed and seemed not without promise. 



It was finally decided, however, that success by this route was 

 so improbable that it was not advisable to try to climb the mountain 

 by any route leading from the south. The best thing to do seemed 

 to abandon the project for that season and try the north side of the 

 mountain in another season, following the easy path of approach 

 offered by the Yukon and Tanana rivers, thence following a branch 

 of the latter, the Kantishna, which approached the mountain on its 

 northern side. The project was therefore abandoned for the time 

 being, the party, with a few exceptions, returning to the coast, 

 whence Professor Parker took ship for home on August 8th. 



Dr. Cook, however, decided in doing some more exploring be- 

 fore the close of the season, and returned with Mr. Browne and 

 some others of the party. This proved a fortunate return, since it 

 led to an interesting result of which the world was soon after in- 

 formed, Dr. Cook announcing that the summit of Mount McKinley 

 had been reached. We may condense the explorer's report of how 

 this was done. 



In their return toward the mountain the party was divided, 



