COOK IN THE ANTARCTIC AND IN ALASKA 107 



for possible lines of ascent. There seemed several promising ones, 

 leading over narrow glaciers and ice-sheeted ridges, both to the east 

 and the west, but every such possible route was crossed somewhere 

 by an avalanche track. This great downpour of snow and rock 

 could not be risked, and no chance of progress remained unless they 

 should follow the cornice of the northeastern arete upon which they 

 were encamped. 



This route seemed a hopeless one. In following it they would 

 have to trust themselves to a ridge of crusted snow, with a sheer drop 

 of four thousand feet on each side, and in the distance they could see 

 a huge rock blocking the path, its vertical sides rising one thousand 

 feet. Beyond it were other ice-clad cliffs, and farther still appeared 

 a steep arete, which led to a glacier on the northern face, and into 

 a valley between two lofty peaks. These formed a double summit 

 to the mountain. 



The locality seen could be reached only in one way. A path 

 must be picked around the great rock. But if they could succeed 

 in doing this, it seemed to Dr. Cook advisable to try for the top. 

 They had food and fuel enough for the purpose, but the season 

 was so far advanced as to make the attempt desperate. At any 

 rate it was safe enough to venture somewhat farther, and adjusting 

 their necksacks and life-line they set out boldly on their dangerous 

 mission. 



To their gratification they found that a narrow cornice led 

 around the great rock, and they tramped doubtfully onward, now 

 through narrow gorges between steep pinnacles, now over danger- 

 ous snow bridges. All day long they continued the difficult work 

 of step-cutting, making little in height, but in the end passing the 

 frowning barrier. Before them now was a steep, snow-covered 

 ridge, a hard climb, but a vast relief from what they had just passed 

 through. 



Night found them at a considerable height up this icy slope, 

 and with no shelter point anywhere in sight. The slope was one of 



