584 TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND AMERICA. [1869, 



February 23. - - Boats dropped down to Karnak, 

 had afternoon at the great temple, tea there at dusk, 

 a famous tea-party in the great hall of columns, all 

 the dignitaries at Luxor and Karnak invited ; the full 

 moonlight enjoyed for an hour or two, and then illu- 

 mination with Bengal lights, making splendid effects 

 among the 137 columns, and other parts ; then rockets ; 

 some of our parties back to boat, the rest to a feast 

 given by a splendid old Arab, the chief of Karnak, in 

 full Arab style, with music, dancing-women, and all. 

 Imaun Joseph, who had been our guest at the temple 

 tea, was his relative's guest at this banquet. Lady 

 Duff-Gordon's account of him had made him known 

 to us most favorably, and we got most thoroughly 

 attached to the man, especially after having him to 

 dine with us next day, his smile, voice, and manners 

 of the sweetest, and his character is every way lovely. 

 He is as dark-skinned as most American negroes, but 

 with very handsome features. All these experiences 

 cannot be written, but could be talked over at large. 

 That evening view of Karnak is the one I want 

 to keep, so I did not go again ; Mrs. G. did once 

 more. 



February 24. Tombs of the kings ; a grand but 

 fatiguing day, most of the time in Belzoni's, the finest 

 and largest ; most of us did two or three more. I 

 came home over the mountains to get the fine view 

 over the valley, etc. . . . 



March 4. Siout : ascended the hill for the great 

 view, from mouth of one of the great old tombs ; 

 shopped in the pretty town ; accepted the American 

 consul's great attentions for the morning only (rich 

 Coptic Christian family), but tore ourselves away 

 from entreaties to stay for dinner and fantasia in the 



