JET. 58.] TO JOHN TORREY. 585 



evening, in honor of the inauguration of the Amer- 

 ican President, so secured the good wind and were off 

 in the afternoon. . . . 



March 9. - Went over the site of Memphis ; saw 

 the colossal figure of Rameses lying pathetically on 

 his face, pyramids of Sakkara, Serapeum, the wonder- 

 ful Apis sarcophagi, and finally that newly excavated, 

 beautif id tomb structure, of date very early in old em- 

 pire (fourth or fifth dynasty), with paintings and low 

 reliefs with truthfulness, spirit, taste, and fineness of 

 execution, much surpassing the best days of the later 

 empire, and all free of the grotesque mythology of 

 later times. A fine treat to come at the last. 



March 10. Hard rowing against wind to reach 

 Gizeh ; went in carriages, by road made for the Prince 

 of Wales, to the Great Pyramid and its fellow. I went 

 in, but no one ascended, - - too much wind ; Sphinx, 

 neighboring old tombs, etc., etc. 



March 11. Cairo : packed and left the boats so 

 long our home, and good-by to the sailors. 



March 12-18. - - Cairo : must not forget one day 

 passed at Mariette's museum, studying specially the 

 fine things of old empire which he has discovered and 

 rescued. Had fairly enough of mosques, Moslem 

 tombs, modern palaces, etc. Sorry that slight illness 

 cut off several things, notably a drive to the site of 

 Heliopolis, marked only by a single obelisk. Steamer 

 from Alexandria would not wait, so we must needs 

 hurry off, our pleasant party break up, etc. 



March 19. A morning drive at Alexandria, to 

 see Pompey's Pillar, the Obelisk, etc., and so on board 

 the Peluze ; a beautif id evening, but blowy weather fol- 

 lowed, a seasick time ; and here we got, not Monday 

 evening, but Tuesday morning, boat gone to Naples 



