586 TRA VEL IN EUROPE AND AMERICA. [1869, 



the day before. . . . Mrs. G. badly knocked up, and 

 here is cold spring weather and fickle, weeping skies, 

 so unlike the thoroughly reliable weather which we 

 had got to regard as a law of nature ; wherefore such 

 freaks take us all by surprise. Oh, how we long 

 already for the dry air and certain sky of old 

 Egypt! . . . 



TAORMINA, March 25, evening. 



We have done it, after all, or at least are in the 

 way of doing it. ... This morning, when the sea 

 looked rough with the recent gales, although the very 

 low barometer began to rise, I was not sorry when the 

 Florio steamer was kept back, waiting an overdue 

 corresponding vessel from Malta, and, though an- 

 nounced to sail to-morrow, I determined to wait yet 

 longer for smoother weather. Meanwhile it cleared off 

 beautifully, though with considerable wind. At four 

 P. M. this afternoon we were off by rail with small lug- 

 gage needful, on the Catania railroad ; an hour and a 

 half along a coast more picturesque than the finest 

 parts of the Corniche road, though not so grand, 

 brought us to Giardini ; whence an ascent of an hour 

 up a zigzag road in a one-horse carriage, commanding 

 charming sunset views all the way, old Etna full in 

 view southwest, brought us to this queer perch. It 

 reminds us of Turbia, but is far more striking. We 

 are in a primitive, but very nice auberge ; our window 

 looking full upon the whole mass of Etna glistening in 

 the clear moonlight. On the left hand we look directly 

 down upon the sea and along the jagged coast ; on the 

 right Taormina Castle overhangs us almost, the old 

 castle or forts covering its narrow summit, probably 

 1,000 feet above us ; it must command an extraordi- 

 nary view. We shall see to-morrow. Rather behind 



