706 FINAL JOURNEYS AND WORK. [1880, 



which rises to the crown of the hill was crowded with 

 people of the town below, going up to the cemetery 

 with flowers and lamps and candles and drapery, to 

 ornament the tombs and graves of relatives, which 

 here is done on All Saints' Day, and we saw the curi- 

 ous sight by day and walked up again in the evening, 

 when all was alight, and in a chapel a sort of requiem 

 service performing. We will not describe the Al- 

 hambra. I fancied I should think the work finical ; 

 but you are carried away by it. But of most interest 

 was our visit to the Cathedral of Granada this morn- 

 ing and to the Capilla Real, to see all the relics and 

 contemporary memorials of Ferdinand and Isabella, 

 their effigies, sword, sceptre, etc., their noble tombs, 

 more rich and beautiful, I think, than those of the 

 Constable and his wife at Burgos, and then to descend 

 into the vault and see their rude iron coffins, which 

 have not been desecrated nor molested, and also those 

 of Philip I. and his poor wife Joanna. (Let us tell 

 you, some day, of a modern Spanish picture, at Madrid, 

 of her and her husband's coffin, which she wearily had 

 carried with her.) All this, and what we see here 

 on the spot of the Moorish life, and what we saw at 

 the cathedral, gives a vivid reality that nothing else 

 can. 



And here my sheet is full and my gossip must be 

 cut short, with short space to add the kindest remem- 

 brances and love which my wife joins in sending to 

 you and yours and daughters. 



