Ck. XVI.] UNCOMFORTABLE LODGING. 297 



The shaft of the wheel passed up through the floor and 

 the lower stone, and was fixed to the upper one which 

 turned round with it without any greasing. The flour 

 made is dark and full of impurities, as no care is taken to 

 keep it clean. 



TTe found the mules and horses we had left at Mata- 

 galpa in good condition, and after getting some dinner 

 started again, taking the road towards Teustepe instead 

 of that by which we had come, as we were told we 

 should avoid the swamps by so doing, for more to the 

 westward they had had no rain. We rode down the 

 valley below the town and found it very dry and barren, 

 the only industry worth naming being a small indigo 

 plantation. Indigo seems to have been more cultivated 

 formerly than now, as in many parts I saw the deserted 

 vats in which the plants are steeped to extract the dye. 

 AVe ascended a high range to the left of the valley, on 

 the top of which were a few pine-trees that we were told 

 were the last we should see on the road to Chontales. 

 On the other side of the range the descent was very steep, 

 and the road was carried down the precipitous and rocky 

 slope in a series of zigzags, so that we saw the mules a 

 few score yards in advance directly under our feet. 



From the hill we had seen a house in the valley, 

 and as night was setting in we sought for it, but the 

 whole district was so covered with low scrubby trees with 

 many paths running in various directions that it was long- 

 before we found it ; and when at last we discovered it, the 

 prospect before us of a night's lodging was so discourag- 

 ing that if it had not then been getting quite dark, and 

 we were told that we should have to travel several miles 

 before coming to another house, we should have souorlu 



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