Cli. XVIII.] EMBARK TO CROSS THE LAKE. 329 



small flocks amongst the bushes ; and the " sanate ' 

 (Quiscahts) was busy amongst the cattle. Their usual 

 plan of operations is for a pair of them to accompany one 

 of the cattle, one on each side, watching for grasshoppers 

 and other insects that are frightened up by the browsing 

 animal. They keep near the head, and fly after the 

 insects that break cover, but do not encroach on each 

 other's side. 



We stopped at a little hacienda perched on the top of 

 a small hill. It was called "El Candelera," and was a 

 small cattle station, surrounded by plains. We now 

 crossed the valley, and made for a range of hills between 

 us and the lake. The ascent was steep and rocky ; and 

 it took us two hours to get to the top. We then saw 

 the great lake, like a sea lying spread out before us, but 

 still at a considerable distance. The descent was very 

 steep, and we had to make long detours to avoid pre- 

 cipitous ravines. At last we reached level ground ; but 

 it was even worse than the mountain roads to travel, 

 being in many parts wet and swampy. After missing 

 our way, and having to retrace our steps for more 

 than a mile, we reached Santo Claro, a cattle hacienda, 

 at dusk. Here we found Seuor Ocon's boat, but there 

 was no other. The boatmen said we must embark at 

 once. We made an arrangement with a man who had 

 accompanied Ocon to take our mules to San Ubaldo, as 

 we proposed to return that way. The boat was small, 

 and there were seven of us ; so that with our saddles and 

 luggage we were much cramped for room. 



They poled the boat for two miles down a small river 

 that emptied into the lake; but just before we reached it, 

 the boatmen stopped and said it was too rough to proceed 



