Ch. IV.] DIFFICULT MARCH. 5i 



summit of which we had a splendid view : behind, over 

 the plains and savannahs we had crossed, to the great 

 lake, with its islands and peaked hills ; and beyond the 

 dark dim mountains of Costa Hica, amongst which dwell 

 the Indians of the Rio Frio and other little-known 

 tribes. Before us were spread out well-grassed 

 savannahs, thickly timbered, excepting where dark 

 winding lines of trees or light green thickets of bamboos 

 marked the course of rivers or mountain brooks. Here 

 and there were sparingly dotted thatched huts, in which 

 dwelt the owners of the cattle, mules, and horses feed- 

 ing on the meadows. Far in the distance the view was 

 bounded by a line of dark, nearly black-looking forest, 

 which, there commencing, extends unbroken to the 

 Atlantic. Near its edge, a seven-peaked range marked 

 the neighbourhood of Libertad the beginning of the 

 gold-mining district. Descending the slope of the 

 range, we found the savannahs on its eastern side much 

 more moist than those to the westward of it; and as we 

 proceeded, the humidity of the ground increased, and 

 the crossings of some of the valleys and swamps were 

 difficult for the mules. The dry season had set in, and 

 these places were rapidly drying up ; but in many it had 

 just reached that stage when the mud was most tena- 

 cious ; at one very bad crossing, called an " estero," my 

 mule fell, with my leg underneath him, pinning me in 

 the mud. The poor beast was exhausted, and would not 

 move. Night had set in it was quite dark, and I had 

 lagged some distance behind my companions : fortu- 

 nately they heard my shouts, and, soon returning, 

 extricated me from my awkward predicament. With- 

 out further mishap we reached Esquipula, a village 



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