216 THE NATURALIST IN NICARAGUA. [Ch. XII. 



in single-file, each man carrying his bow and arrows. 

 They were going down to Huaco to buy corn, the 

 maize crop having failed around Matagalpa the last 

 season. The mountain road, though dry, was rocky, with 

 steep ascents, and our mules got very tired. About five 

 o'clock we descended from the hills into the valley of 

 Ocalca, near to which there had been some gold workings, 

 now abandoned. Here we came in sight, for the first 

 time, of the pine forests, a high range a few miles to the 

 north being covered with them. 



About dusk, we reached an Indian hut, and proposed 

 staying there for the night. The owners were pure 

 Indians ; the women, engaged as usual in grinding maize, 

 were naked to the waist. There was an old man and 

 his son, and some children. The old Indian looked dis- 

 tressed at our proposal to take up our quarters there for 

 the night, but he made no objection. The accommoda- 

 tion was very poor, there being no hammocks or bed- 

 steads ; and I think all the inmates must have slept 

 above on some bamboos that were laid across the beams. 

 Learning from the old man that there was a larger and 

 better house a little further on, we relieved him of our 

 company ; and crossing a river, reached a cattle hacienda 

 owned by a very stout native named Blandon, who made 

 us welcome. The house was a large one ; and there 

 were a number of mozos and women-servants about. 

 We asked if we could buy anything to eat ; and Senor 

 Blandon said he would get supper prepared, at which 

 we were much pleased, as we had had nothing all day 

 excepting a drink of coffee at daylight, and some tortillas 

 and cheese at Muy-muy. After waiting a long time, we 

 were invited to our supper ; and on going into an inner 



