242 THE NATURALIST IN NICARAGUA. [Ch. XIII. 



some low flat-topped ranges covered with small trees and 

 brushwood, amongst which were many clearings well 

 fenced and planted with maize. Passing over an un- 

 dulating country, the hills covered with oak forests, the 

 lowlands well grassed, we reached about two o'clock San 

 Rafael, a small town that has used up all its houses in 

 forming the plaza in front of a barn-like church. As 

 usual the half-breed population were sunk in idleness and 

 poverty. 



"We stopped at one of the Louses to get a drink of 

 " tiste," and were visited by a fussy little man who told 

 us that he was secretary to the judge and keeper of the 

 " estanco," and in fact the ruling power in the town, 

 which he placed at our disposal. We, however, wanted 

 nothing but our " tiste " and to get some information 

 about a cave we had heard was in the neighbourhood. 

 Our friend knew all about it and got a boy to show us 

 the way for a couple of dimes. Under his guidance we 

 crossed a brook, and passing through a pine forest soon 

 reached the cave, which was on the side of the precipitous 

 bank of a small stream. It was only a small one, ex- 

 tending for about twenty feet back, hollowed out of a 

 sandy conglomerate, probably by the action of the brook 

 when it ran at a higher level. I dug a little into the 

 floor, but had not time to do much, and found nothing. 

 There were signs of its having been recently occupied, the 

 walls and roof being blackened with smoke, and numerous 

 shells of the common fresh-water melania were lying 

 about. We were told that the Indians when travelling 

 used it, and that during the last revolution the inhabi- 

 tants of San Hafael hid their valuables in it, though what 

 they consisted of I am at a loss to say. 



