Ch. XV.] FRESHNESS OF EAELY MOEXIXG. 285 



breeds with a large infusion of negro blood ; and the 

 weed-covered streets and plaza and dilapidated church 

 compared unfavourably with the not far distant Indian 

 town of Totagalpa. The Mestizos are a thriftless, care- 

 less people ; but I cannot here dilate on their failings. 

 Let only the hospitality and kindness I experienced in 

 Palacaguina live in my mind, and let regret draw a veil 

 over their failings, and censure forget to chide. 



Next morning Don Trinidad went himself to get us 

 milk for our chocolate, and three or four others assisted 

 us as kindly on our departure as they had welcomed us 

 on our arrival ; so that we rode away with more pleasant 

 recollections of the weedy-looking town than if we had 



j {-/ 



been entertained by grandees ; for these people were 

 poor, and had assisted us out of pure good nature. The 

 country at first was level, and the roads smooth and dry. 

 The morning was delightfully cool ; and as we trotted 

 along our spirits were high and gay, and Snatches of song 

 sprung unbidden to our lips. How delightful these rides 

 in the early morning were ! how all nature seemed to 

 be in accord with our feelings ! Every bush and tree 

 was noted, every bird-call heard. "VYe would shout to 

 one another, " Do you see this or that?" or set Rito off 

 into convulsions with some thin joke. Every sense was 

 gratified ; it was like the youth of life. But as the day 

 wore on, the sun would shine hotter and hotter ; what, 

 had been a pleasure became a toil; and we would push 

 on determinedly but silently. The day would wear on, 

 and our shadows come again and begin to lengthen ; the 

 heat of the day was past, but our spirits would not mount 

 to their morning's height. The beautiful flowers, the 

 curious thorny bushes, the gorgeous butterflies, and 



