30 AUTOBIOGRAPHY. [ch. ii. 



of observing and reasoning was a much higher one than 

 that of skill and sport. That my mind became developed 

 through my pursuits during the voyage is rendered probable 

 by a remark made by my father, who was the most acute ob- 

 server whom I ever saw, of a sceptical disposition, and far 

 from being a believer in phrenology ; for on first seeing 

 me after the voyage, he turned round to my sisters, and 

 exclaimed, " Why, the shape of his head is quite altered." 



To return to the voyage. On September 11th (1831), I 

 paid a flying visit with Fitz-Roy to the Beagle at Plymouth. 

 Then to Shrewsbury to wish my father and sisters a long 

 farewell. On October 24th I took up my residence at 

 Plymouth, and remained there until December 27th, when 

 the Beagle finally left the shores of England for her cir- 

 cumnavigation of the world. We made two earlier attempts 

 to sail, but were driven back each time by heavy gales. 

 These two months at Plymouth were the most miserable 

 which I ever spent, though I exerted myself in various ways. 

 I was out of spirits at the thought of leaving all my family 

 and friends for so long a time, and the weather seemed to 

 me inexpressibly gloomy. I was also troubled with palpita- 

 tion and pain about the heart, and like many a young igno- 

 rant man, especially one with a smattering of medical knowl- 

 edge, was convinced that I had heart disease. I did not con- 

 sult any doctor, as I fully expected to hear the verdict that I 

 was not fit for the voyage, and I was resolved to go at all 

 hazards. 



I need not here refer to the events of the voyage where 

 we went and what we did as I have given a sufficiently 

 full account in my published Journal. The glories of the 

 vegetation of the Tropics rise before my mind at the present 

 time more vividly than anything else ; though the sense of 

 sublimity, which the great deserts of Patagonia and the for- 

 est-clad mountains of Tierra del Fuego excited in me, has 

 left an indelible impression on my mind. The sight of a 

 naked savage in his native land is an event which can never 

 be forgotten. Many of my excursions on horseback through 

 wild countries, or in the boats, some of which lasted several 

 weeks, were deeply interesting; their discomfort and some 

 degree of danger were at that time hardly a drawback, and 

 none at all afterwards. I also reflect with high satisfaction 

 on some of my scientific work, such as solving the problem 

 of coral islands, and making out the geological structure of 

 certain islands, for instance, St. Helena. JMor must I pass 



