254 FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE. [1839, 



almost to the Grimsel, and to Brieg in the Valais. 

 The increasing supply of ice and the refrigeration of 

 such an immense quantity forces branches down the 

 valleys far below the level of perpetual snow, particu- 

 larly these at Grindelwald, the lowest known ; the 

 base of the lowermost being little more than 3,000 

 feet above sea-level. I descended rapidly, looked 

 down upon the two glaciers just mentioned, reached 

 the little hamlet of Grindelwald in the bottom of the 

 valley, close at the feet of these vast mountains, and a 

 little above the foot of the lower glacier, which is so 

 close that it seems almost possible to throw a stone to 

 it ; but I believe it is a mile off ; reached here at five 

 o'clock (twenty-one miles), having walked very deli- 

 berately. It is now just at sunset ; the day has been 

 warm ; but now it is very cold, and I am shivering 

 too much to hold my pen ; besides, it is time for sup- 

 per, and I want another view of the mountains. 

 Adieu. . . . 



Villeneuve, 4th July, 1839. . . . Being unexpectedly 

 detained here for a few hours, almost at the close of 

 my Swiss pilgrimage, I resume my pen, which I have 

 had no time to use for some time past, and must 

 bring up my journal in a hurried way to the present. 

 Since I broke off I have seen more than half the won- 

 ders of Switzerland. I can only now tell you where I 

 have been from day to day ; but I shall have much to 

 give you viva voce some of the evenings of the rapidly 

 approaching autumn. Stayed at Grindelwald Thurs- 

 day night (a week ago) ; watched the clouds striking 

 against the Wetterhorn and the Eiger and rolling 

 down its sides ; terribly cold. Friday, 28th, rose at 

 four ; started at five, in fine walking trim, after pay- 

 ing an exorbitant bill for very indifferent fare ; was 



