176 A Century of Family Letters [CHAP, xm 



ness as if their existence depended on succeeding in each 

 instance, makes a walk a scene of persecution. In short 

 this country has so many odious or painful circumstances 

 which move one's indignation, contempt, or compassion so 

 powerfully that the charms of scenery and of climate can- 

 not have their proper effect. In short I remain at least 

 as good a John Bull as I came out. You must not think 

 however that I have looked only at one side. I have had 

 much pleasure, and I have satisfied a wish almost as old as 

 my memory, and I must not expect to escape the lot of 

 human nature that there is disappointment in the grati- 

 fication of all desires. " Man never is but always to be 

 blest." I heartily wish you could have partaken of my 

 pleasures or disappointments, but many, I believe most, 

 of the pleasures would have been fatigues to you. I trust 

 however that this first long separation will be our last. I 

 turned my face northward from Paestum with the feeling 

 of being on my way to meet you. . . . 



If you do not contrive to meet us at Milan for the purpose 

 of going with us to Venice, I rather think we shall not be 

 unlikely to give up Venice altogether. I suspect that by 

 that time we shall think the sight of Venice will scarcely 

 repay us for lengthening our route so much. We think 

 that Canaletto and the Panorama have made us familiar 

 with the appearance of Venice, and besides the appear- 

 ance, there is not much for such cursory travellers as we 

 are, except some pictures. After my lamentations in my 

 last for the want of the boasted blue sky of Italy, you will 

 be sorry to hear that the sky has been obstinately grey 

 and the atmosphere hazy; and I am satisfied that we have 

 scarcely ever in England so many days together so un- 

 favourable for showing scenery as we have had here. I 

 am afraid you will think me a very smell-fungus, but I 

 believe there has been more humbug about Italy than any 

 other country in the world, and travellers have affected 

 raptures that they have not felt. Whatever I may express, 

 I shall certainly feel very great delight at seeing a certain 

 chien de visage again, a feeling in which my companions 



