Tent and Camera: The Tools of Bird-Photography. 31 



Tlic Tent in L'sc. Some difficulty may be experienced in pitching the tent in exactly 

 ;he right position with reference to the nest, without the necessity of further change. 

 The factors to be borne in mind are the height of the sun, the focal length of the lens, 

 and the position of the window to be made in the tent-front directly opposite the nest. 

 The front of the tent should be parallel with the nesting bough (when there is onci, and 

 the long axis of the latter should be parallel with the sun's course. The tent is so placed 

 that the nest is in direct line, not with the middle of the tent, but with the window to 

 one side. When the observer stands within, facing the nest, the window lies to his left, at 

 one side of the vertical stake, and either just over the cross-piece or somewhere below it, 

 depending on the height of the nest from the ground. The tent will not overshadow the 

 nesting bough when once it is in proper position. 



If the focal length nf the lens be 61 inches, and the nest that of a Cedar Waxwing, which 

 is mounted at the height of four feet, and the tent be so placed that the front of the lens is 

 twenty-eight inches from the rim of the nest, we shall get a picture with adequate setting on 

 34x5 plate, like many shown in the engravings. With lenses of longer focus, which it 

 is advisable to use if possible, it is not necessary to approach so near. The large Robin 

 pictures were made with a 9-^ inch lens on a 5x7 plate, at a distance of about four feet. 



When the position has been determined the tent-poles are set firmly into the ground, 

 the ridge-pole adjusted and the tent-cloth thrown over it. It saves time to lay one end 

 of the peak in position and draw the other over to its proper place. The cross-pieces are 

 then lowered from the inside and the guys loosely set. A flap about six inches square is 

 then cut with scissors in the front of the tent, to the left of the pole opposite the nest, 

 which can be viewed through the opening. Should the position subsequently prove to be 

 wrong, the poles may be raised both together and reset. When everything is right the 

 guys are tightened, and the free edges fixed to the ground with wire pins, which will hold 

 the walls taut and prevent excessive flapping when there is wind. It is often convenient 

 to have the flap at the front on the operator's left so that one leg of the tripod may pro- 

 ject through it. 



The proper adjustment of the camera follows, the nest being the object focused until 

 the old birds appear. I have found it advantageous to pin the focusing cloth firmly 

 around the camera so that it is always in position for use, and to stretch a piece of green 

 denim on the side of the camera next the observer, fixing it between the front fold of the 

 focusing cloth and the tent so that it hangs vertical, and effectually conceals the operator 

 when standing upright and setting the shutter. Peep-holes are made to command all 

 directions, and of course the nesting bough to which attention is mainly given. It is con- 

 venient to make small V-shaped openings which can be pinned up or down. A bird will 

 sometimes detect some movement of the eye when close to such openings, so that they 

 should not be made larger or more numerous than necessary. 



When a photograph has been made and the shutter is to be reset, the vertical flap is 

 released from the focusing cloth and carefully drawn over the window, if the birds happen 

 to be at the nest as when the female is brooding. Otherwise if timid or unaccustomed to the 

 new conditions, the movement of the hand may be a source of alarm. I have successively 

 photographed family groups without disturbing them, when at a distance of twenty-eight 

 to thirty-six inches, after they had learned to disregard the click of the shutter. When a 

 window in a different position is wanted, the old one is patched up and a new one made. 



