HOW TO COOK AND EAT OYSTERS. 28 1 



" I learnt the art," says the author of " The Oyster," &c., 

 "years ago, in one of the Midland Counties, where Christ- 

 mas-eve would scarce be Christmas-eve without an oyster 

 supper. Let me sketch the scene. In the centre of the 

 table, covered with a clean white cloth up to the top hoop, 

 stands the barrel of oysters, a kindly remembrance from a 

 friend, and the more kind because oysters are not found in 

 fresh-water streams. Each gentleman at table finds an 

 oyster-knife and a clean coarse towel by the side of his 

 plate, and he is expected to open oysters for himself and 

 the lady seated by his side, unless she is wise enough to 

 open them for herself. By the side of every plate is the 

 panis ostrearius, the oyster-loaf made and baked purposely 

 for the occasion, and all down the centre of the table, 

 interspersed with vases of bright holly and evergreens, are 

 plates filled with pats of butter, or lemons cut in half, and 

 as many vinegar and pepper castors as the establishment 

 can furnish. As the attendance of servants at such gather- 

 ings is usually dispensed with, bottled Bass or Guinness, 

 or any equally unsophisticated pale ale or porter, is liberally 

 provided ; and where the means allow, light continental 

 wines, such as Chablis, Sauterne, Mosseux, Marsault or 

 Medoc, still Champagne, Moselle, or any light Rhenish 

 wine, and failing any of these, Madeira or Sherry are 

 placed upon the table. In this list is contained the names 

 of such wines only as are best suited to enhance the taste 

 of the oyster, and to assist digestion. Of spirits, only 

 good English gin, genuine Schiedam, or Irish or Scotch 

 whisky, are admissible, as rum and brandy taken upon 

 oysters will almost always be sure to make them indiges- 

 tible ; and liqueurs are quite out of place." 



The ancients ate oysters raw and cooked in various 

 ways, some preferring the raw dainties, others some made 



