19003 Farther North 



theless in a rich valley; Uesugi explained that the 

 city, rich and powerful in feudal days, had fallen in 

 modern times from its former high estate. Going 

 out to fish, we found that the clear, shallow, stony 

 Iwai River held very little life, and most of our local 

 collection came from small boys angling with hook 

 and line at a little waterfall under the bridge. But 

 our nets were carried for us by a dignified, close- 

 shaven gentleman resembling a young parson, who, 

 being reduced in circumstances and thus compelled 

 to dispense with trousers, had to put up with odd 

 jobs on the street. 



From Ichinoseki the railway follows up the rich 

 green valley of the Kitakami, the fine old ceremonial 

 road, Tokaido, crossing it at intervals. For hundreds The 

 of miles this royal highway, bordered on each side by Tokaido 

 cryptomerias and tall, straggling pines - - each an 

 artist's study - - is one of the most charming features 

 of the land. What tales it could tell, both bloody 

 and heroic! Charming also are the Shinto temples 

 and their sacred groves protected by torii. 



In Morioka again everybody came out to welcome 

 us, a leading missionary (the Rev. Rothesay Miller), 

 the mayor (Kiyooka), and the head teacher (Onodera) 

 being well to the front. The handsome town, 

 crossed by two very rapid rivers, is backed by lofty 

 mountains and surrounded by extensive apple 

 orchards and fertile fields. Mr. and Mrs. Miller 

 entertained us hospitably in the comfortable par- 

 sonage. And here, as elsewhere in Japan, I found 

 that the modern missionary had the well-deserved 

 respect of his neighbors. 



At the high school I discoursed by request on 

 higher education, my facile friend Nakamura fur- 



n 49 n 



