1892] The Old Franciscan Missions 



an arrangement, I may add, not unlike that from 

 which Jefferson drew the architectural motive of the 

 University of Virginia. In the main building, 

 Senora Coutts, widow of Lieutenant Cave J. Coutts, 

 a classmate and friend of Grant, received us with 

 old-time hospitality and dignity. In her youth a 

 noted beauty, the Sefiorita Ysidora Bandini, she 

 still retained a singular charm and vivacity, and 

 her sprightly reminiscences of other times and other 

 manners kept us keenly interested. 



The next in order, San Juan Capistrano, with its San Juan 

 splendid array of arcaded cloisters around a central Ca P tstrano 

 quadrangular patio, furnished - - as I have already 

 explained - - the art idea of Stanford, but was long 

 since wrecked by a fierce temblor and remains a 

 ruin, its portal guarded by the largest pepper tree 

 in California. North of Capistrano are three minor 

 foundations: San Gabriel Arcangel, unpretending, 

 but still intact; San Fernando Rey de Espana, 

 lately restored ; and San Buenaventura, never large, 

 and now reduced to a parish church. 



Much bigger and rising from a splendid garden Santa 

 which overlooks the sea and offshore islands, stands Barbara 

 the Mission of Santa Barbara. Built of stone, this 

 edifice has remained intact and continuously occu- 

 pied by Franciscan brothers. Its nearest neighbors 

 to the north beyond the Sierra Santa Ynez, the 

 high backbone of Santa Barbara County, are the 

 twin establishments of La Purisima Concepcion and 

 Santa Ynez Virgen y Martir, small but still in use. 

 Next comes San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, at the foot 

 of a row of four huge, separate, conical hills, unique 

 in California scenery. 



San Miguel Arcangel in the valley of the Salinas 



C 437 3 



