48 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 
t 
ing their summits here and there, and they glimmer all 
along the shore for two or three miles on either side of 
the central, business part of the town. 
Soon after our arrival Mr. Agassiz received an official 
visit from a custom-house agent, saying that he had 
orders to land all our baggage without examination, and 
that a boat would be sent at any day and hour convenient 
to him to bring his effects on shore. This was a great 
relief, as the scientific apparatus, added to the personal 
luggage of so large a party, makes a fearful array of boxes, 
cases, &c. It would be a long business to pass it all 
through the cumbrous ceremonies of a custom-house. 
CJ 
This afternoon, while Mr. Agassiz had gone to San Chris- 
tovao* to acknowledge this courtesy and to pay his respects 
to the Emperor, we were wandering over a little island 
(Illia das Enxadas) near which our ship lies, and from 
which she takes in coal for her farther voyage. The 
proprietor, besides his coal-wharf, has a very pretty house 
and garden, with a small chapel adjoining. It was my 
first glimpse of tropical vegetation and of Brazilian life, 
and had all the charm of novelty. As we landed, a group 
of slaves, black as ebony, were singing and dancing a 
fandango. So far as we could understand, there was a 
leader who opened the game with a sort of chant, ap- 
parently addressed to each in turn as he passed around 
the circle, the others joining in chorus at regular intervals. 
Presently he broke into a dance which rose in wildness 
and excitement, accompanied by cries and ejaculations. 
The movements of the body were a singular combination 
of negro and Spanish dances. The legs and feet had the 
short, jerking, loose-jointed motion of our negroes in 
* The winter palace of the Emperor. 
