VOYAGE UP THE COAST TO PARA. 133 
at the house of Dr. Mendes, an old acquaintance ol Major 
Coutinho. It was blowing hard and raining when we left 
the steamer ; our boat put into the beach in a heavy surf, 
and I was wondering how I should reach the shore, when 
two of our negro rowers jumped into the water, and, stand- 
ing at the side of the boat behind me, motioned me to 
come, crossing their arms basket-fashion, as we do some- 
times to carry children. They looked as if it were the or- 
dinary mode of conveyance, so I seated myself, and with 
one arm around the neck of each of my black bearers, 
they laughing as heartily as I did, I was landed trium- 
phantly on the sands. After the first greetings at the house 
of Dr. Mendes were over, we were offered the luxury of 
a bath before breakfast. The bath is a very important 
feature in a Brazilian household. This one was of the size 
of a small room, the water (about two feet deep and of a 
delicious, soft, velvety character) constantly flowing through 
over the smooth sand floor. They are often larger than 
this, from four to five feet deep, and sometimes lined 
with blue and white tiles, which make a very clean and 
pretty floor. It is a great luxury in this warm climate, 
and many persons bathe several times a' day. The bath- 
house is usually in the garden, at a convenient distance 
from the house, but not immediately adjoining it. The 
bath was followed by an excellent breakfast, after which 
we drove through the city. Ceara is a wonderfully pro- 
gressive town for Brazil. Five years ago it had not a 
paved street ; now all the streets are well paved, with 
good sidewalks, and the city is very carefully laid out, 
with a view to its future growth.* To-day we are again 
* Here, as elsewhere, I found ready and willing coadjutors among ama- 
teur collectors. On my return from the Amazons, many months later, I found 
