MANAOS AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD- 279 
morning. I must say that as I went down tho rough 
steps to the landing, in the very pool where we had 
bathed, it struck me that the undertaking was somewhat 
perilous ; if this overshadowed nook was dark at noonday, 
it was black at nightfall, and the turbulent little stream, 
rushing along over rocks and logs, looked mischievous. The 
rest of the party went with us to the embarkation, and, 
as we disappeared in the darkness under the overhanging 
branches, one of them called after us, laughingly, 
" Lasciate ogni speranza, voi clie 'ntrate." 
However, there was only danger enough to laugh at, none 
to give real concern, and I enjoyed the row through the 
narrow channel, where the trees met overhead, and where 
the boatmen were obliged to jump into the water to guide 
the canoe among the boulders and fallen trunks. We 
reached home in perfect safety, and in time to welcome 
the others when they arrived on foot. 
November 8th. Manaos has been in unwonted agitation, 
for the last few days, on the subject of a public ball to be 
given in honor of Mr. Tavares Bastos. Where it should 
take place, what should be the day and hour, and, among 
the Senhoras, what one should wear, have been the subjects 
of discussion. The doubtful questions were at last settled, 
and it was appointed for the fifth of the month, in the 
President's palace. "Palace' is the name always given 
to the residence of the President of the province, however 
little the house may be in keeping with the title. The 
night was not so auspicious as could have been wished ; 
it was very dark, and, as no such luxury as a carriage is 
known here, the different parties might be seen groping 
through the streets at the appointed hour, lighted with 
