280 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 
lanterns. Every now and then, as we were on our way, 
a ball-dress would emerge from the darkness of an oppo- 
site corner, picking its way with great care along the 
muddy ruts. When we had all assembled, however, I 
did not see that any toilet had suffered seriously on the 
road. The dresses were of every variety, from silks and 
satins to stuff gowns, and the complexions of all tints, 
from the genuine negro through paler shades of Indian 
and negro to white. There is absolutely no distinction 
of color here ; a black lady, always supposing her to be 
free, is treated with as much consideration and meets 
with as much attention as a white one. It is, however, 
rare to see a person in society who can be called a genuine 
negro ; but there are many mulattoes and mamelucos, that 
is, persons having black or Indian blood. There is little 
ease in Brazilian society, even in the larger cities ; still 
less in the smaller ones, where, to guard against mistakes, 
the conventionalities of town life are exaggerated. The Bra- 
zilians, indeed, though so kind and hospitable, are a formal 
people, fond of etiquette and social solemnities. On their 
arrival, all the Senhoras were placed in stiff rows around 
the walls of the dancing-room. Occasionally an unfortu- 
nate cavalier would stray in and address a few words 
to this formidable array of feminine charms ; but it was 
not until the close of the evening, when the dancing had 
broken up the company into groups, that the scene became 
really gay. At intervals, trays of " doces ' and tea were 
handed round, and at twelve there was a more solid repast, 
at which all the ladies were seated, their partners standing 
behind their chairs and waiting upon them. Then began 
the toasts and healths, which were given and received with 
great enthusiasm. After supper the dancing was renewed 
