286 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 
of the world. It is true, that we had neither ices nor 
champagne, the former being of course difficult to obtain 
in this climate ; but these two exceptions were more than 
compensated for by the presence of tropical fruits not 
to be had -elsewhere at any price, enormous Pineapples, 
green and purple Abacatys (alligator pears), crimson Pi- 
tangas, Attas (fruta do Conde), Abios, Sapotis, Bananas 
of the choicest kinds and in the greatest profusion, and a 
variety of Maracujas (the fruit of the passion-flower).* 
The breakfast was gay, the toasts were numerous, the 
speeches animated, and long after the Senhoras had left the 
table the room still echoed with Vivas, as health followed 
health. At the close of the dinner there was a little 
scene which struck us as very pretty ; I do not know 
whether it is a custom here, but, as. it excited no remark, 
I suppose it may be. When the gentlemen returned to the 
house, bringing the music with them, all the waiters assem- 
bled in line before the door, decanter and glass in hand, to 
finish the remains of the wine with a toast on their own 
account. The head-waiter then stood in front of them 
and gave the health, first, of the persons for whom the 
banquet was given, followed by that of the President, 
all of which were answered with Vivas as they filled their 
glasses. Then one of the gentlemen stepping forward gave, 
amid shouts of laughter, the health of the head-waiter 
* As I do not wish to mislead, and this narrative may perhaps influence 
some one to make a journey in this region, I should add, that, while the above 
is strictly trne, there are many things essential to the comfort of the traveller 
not to be had. There is not a decent hotel throughout the whole length of the 
Amazons, and any one who thinks of travelling there must provide himself 
with such letters as will secure accommodation in private houses. So recom- 
mended, he may safely depend upon hospitality, or upon such assistance from 
individuals as will enable him to find a private lodging. 
