RETURN TO MANAOS. 323 
coarsely painted image of the Virgin, the other a gayly 
dressed doll, placed on a small altar, where was also a 
figure of the infant Jesus, surrounded by flowers. At a 
later hour the midnight mass was celebrated ; less interest- 
ing to me than the earlier ceremony, because not so exclu- 
sively a service of the Indians, though they formed a large 
part of the congregation ; and the music, as usual, was 
performed by tlie band of Indian boys from the Casa dos 
Educandos. But there i's nothing here to make the Catholic 
service impressive ; the churches on the Amazons generally 
are of the most ordinary kind, and in a ruinous condition. 
There is a large unfinished stone church in Manaos, stand- 
ing on the hill, and occupying a commanding position, 
which will make it a conspicuous object if it is ever 
completed ; but it has stood in its present state for years, 
and seems likely to remain so for an indefinite length of 
time. It is a pity they have not the custom here of 
dressing their churches with green at Christmas, because 
they have so singularly beautiful and appropriate a tree 
for it in the palms. The Pupunha palm, for instance, so 
architectural in its symmetry, with its column ar-like stem 
and its dark-green vault of drooping leaves, would be 
admirable for this purpose. To-morrow we leave Manaos 
in the " Ibicuhy," in order to ascend the Rio Negro as 
far as Pedreira, where the first granitic formation is said to 
occur. 
December 21th. On board the " Ibicuhy." There was 
little incident to mark our day yesterday, and yet it was 
one full of enjoyment. The day itself was such as rarely 
occurs in these regions ; indeed, I should say it is the only 
time, during the whole six months we have passed on the 
Amazons, when we have had cool weather with a clear 
