CEARA. 445 
fronting the town, making it impossible, at certain states 
of the tide and in stormy weather, for any boat to land, 
unless it be one of these jangadas (catamarans), over which 
the waves break without swamping them. At about nine 
o'clock in the evening a custom-house boat came out, and, 
notwithstanding the lateness of the hour and the rough sea, 
we determined to go on shore, for we were told that in the 
morning the tide would be unfavorable, and if the wind 
continued in the present quarter it might be still more dif- 
ficult, if not impossible, to land. It was not without some 
anxiety that I stood waiting my turn to enter the boat ; for 
though at one moment it rose, on the swell of the sea, close 
to the stair, in the twinkling of an eye it was a couple of 
yards away. Some presence of mind and agility were 
needed in order to make the leap just at the right instant ; 
and I was glad to find myself in the boat and not in the 
water, the chances being about even. As we rode in over 
the breakers, the boatmen entertained us with so many sto- 
ries of the difficulty of landing, the frequent accidents, and 
especially of one which had occurred a few days before when 
three Englishmen had been drowned, that I began to think 
reaching the shore must be more perilous than leaving the 
rhip. As we approached the town the scene was not with- 
out its picturesque charm. The moon, struggling through 
gray, watery clouds, threw a fitful light over the long sand- 
beach, on which the crested waves were driving furiously. 
A number of laden boats were tossing in the surf, and the 
roar of the breakers mingled with the cries of the black 
porters, as they waded breast high through the water, un- 
loading the cargoes and carrying their burdens to the shore 
on their heads. We were landed much in the same way, 
the boatmen carrying us over the surf. This is the ordi- 
