112 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 
why these men will wait motionless for hours, and think 
themselves repaid (as I heard one of them declare) if they 
only hear the cry of the dogs and know they have roused 
the game, even if there be no other result. However, in 
this instance, we had plenty of other booty. The Anta lost, 
the hunters, who had carefully avoided firing hitherto, lest 
the sounds of their guns should give him warning, now 
turned their attention to lesser game, and we rode home 
in the afternoon rich in spoils, though without a Tapir. 
The next day was that of our departure. Before leav- 
ing, we rode with Mr. Lage through his plantation, that 
we might understand something of the process of coffee 
culture in this country. I am not sure that, in giving 
an account of this model fazenda, we give a just idea 
of fazendas in general. Its owner carries the same large 
and comprehensive spirit, the same energy and force of will, 
into all his undertakings, and has introduced extensive 
reforms on his plantations.. The Fazenda da Fortaleza 
de Santa Anna lies at the foot of the Serra da Babylonia. 
The house itself, as I have already said, makes a part of a 
succession of low white buildings, enclosing an oblong 
square divided into neat lots, destined for the drying of 
coffee. This drying of the coffee in the immediate vicinity 
of the house, though it seems a very general custom, must 
be an uncomfortable one ; for the drying-lots are laid down 
in a dazzling white cement, from the glare of which, in this 
hot climate, the eye turns wearily away, longing for a green 
spot on which to rest. Just behind the house on the slope 
of the hill is the orangery. I am never tired of these 
golden orchards, and this was one of especial beauty. 
The small, deep-colored tangerines, sometimes twenty or 
thirty in one cluster, the large, choice orange, " Laranja 
