FROM PARA TO MANAOS. 163 
and then crossing one of the forest creeks on the logs. 
Seeing that I was rather timid, he cut for me a long pole, 
with the aid of which I felt quite brave. But at last we 
came to a place where the water was so deep that I could 
not touch bottom with my pole, and as the round log on 
which I was to cross was rather rocking and unsteady, 
I did not dare to advance. I told him, in my imperfect 
Portuguese, that I was afraid. " Nao, mia branca " (No, 
my white) he said, reassuringly ; " nao tern medo " (don't 
be afraid). Then, as if a thought struck him, he motioned 
me to wait, and, going a few steps up the creek, he unloosed 
his boat, brought it down to the spot where we stood, and 
put us across to the opposite shore. Just beyond was his 
pretty, picturesque home, where he showed me his children, 
telling me their ages, and introduced me to his wife. There 
is a natural courtesy about these people which is very at- 
tractive, and which Major Coutinho, who has lived among 
them a great deal, tells me is a general characteristic of 
the Amazonian Indians. When we took leave of them 
and returned to the canoe, I supposed our guide would 
simply put us across to the other shore, a distance of a 
few feet only, as he had done in coming. Instead of that 
he headed the canoe up the creek into the wood. I shall 
never forget that row, the more enchanting that it was 
so unexpected, through the narrow water-path, overarched 
by a solid roof of verdure, and black with shadows ; and 
yet it was not gloomy, for outside, the sun was setting in 
crimson and gold, and its last beams struck in under the 
boughs and lit the interior of the forest with a warm glow. 
Nor shall I easily forget the face of our Indian friend, who 
had welcomed us so warmly to his home, and who evidently 
enjoyed our exclamations of delight and the effect of the 
