130 LAKE SUPERIOR. 



crookedness of the course, it was two o'clock before we got there. 

 On our arrival, we found some confusion. So large a number of pas- 

 sengers had not been expected, for the travel on this route is very 

 inconsiderable ; the boats being maintained principally by their con- 

 tracts with the Post-office. 



The place consists of a small gap cut in the forest, large enough 

 for a single rather neat frame-house and out-buildings. From it a 



o o 



dark lane, cut straight into the woods, was the road we were to take, 

 ' a highway in its most primitive stages, as we found when, after some 

 delay, we got off in three large open wagons, into which we were 

 stowed with our luggage, as close as cattle on the way to market. 



We found on our first landing a marked change both in the Fauna 

 and the Flora. The woods are like those of Western New York in 

 the size and species of the trees. We saw again red and sugar 

 maples, red and white oaks, hop-hornbeam, beech, ash, basswood, 

 sumach, &c., and among the birds we recognized the red-headed 

 woodpecker and blue jay. 



The road for the first thirteen miles was as bad as could be found, 

 at this season of the year, on the continent, and we had to keep all 

 the way at a walk. In the spring I should think it could be hardly 

 passable by heavy wagons. For this distance, we saw no signs of 

 habitation except a few scattered ruinous log-cabins, built by Indians, 

 who had been encouraged to settle here, but who had long since 

 deserted them. 



After that we began to meet clearings, growing more and more 

 numerous as we approached Coldwater. At one of these we suc- 

 ceeded in getting some excellent bread and milk, after convincing 

 the mistress, a canny North-country woman, of our solvency. 



Coldwater is a decayed looking village, run to pigs, snake-fences 

 and wide straggling streets. According to the Bishop, who as cura- 

 tor of things spiritual in this district ought to know, the inhabitants 

 have a very general antipathy to the article after which the place is 

 called, whence perhaps their unprosperous condition. Beyond Cold- 

 water we got on to higher land, where the road is better, and we 

 mended our pace, but it was dark before we reached Orilla Landing 

 on Lake Simcoe. 



Finding the steamer here, we went on board to engage our pas- 



