48 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW 



for the Governor's carriage holds the right of way 

 in the middle of the street and is in no wise re- 

 stricted in its rate of speed. A circuit of seven 

 miles brought us up at the railway station, the once 

 jet-black horses and their brilliant trappings now 

 white with lather. 



At the station were assembled thirty to forty 

 ladies and gentlemen, including the Governor and 

 his wife, indeed, nearly all of those whose kind 

 attentions had been unremitting from the hour of 

 my arrival. Having partaken of some light re- 

 freshments, standing at a table spread in view 

 of the waiting train, each in turn bade me good- 

 bye on the American plan a hand-shake. I 

 subsequently learned by experience that the Rus- 

 sian custom includes a kiss, at least on the part 

 of the men. 



A restful night in a comfortable bed in one of 

 Russia's admirable compartment cars and a few 

 bright morning hours brought me to St. Peters- 

 burg, Russia's modern capital, great in wealth, in 

 culture, art, and architecture, worthy to be cata- 

 logued with Paris, Vienna, Berlin, London, and 

 Washington. 



We all know about the change of name from St. 



