148 FROM MADEIRA TO THE BARRIER 



places was arranged between the different groups, so 

 that those who had associated from their own inclination 

 would in future be members of the same team. 



We had expected to reach the Equator by October 1, 

 but the unfavourable conditions of wind that we met 

 with to the north of it caused us to be a little behind 

 our reckoning, though not much. On the afternoon of 

 October 4 the Fram crossed the line. Thus an impor- 

 tant stage of the voyage was concluded : the feeling that 

 we had now reached southern latitudes was enough to put 

 us all in holiday humour, and we felt we must get up 

 a modest entertainment. According to ancient custom, 

 crossing the line should be celebrated by a visit from 

 Father Neptune himself, whose part is taken for the 

 occasion by someone chosen from among the ship's 

 company. If in the course of his inspection this august 

 personage comes upon anyone who is unable to prove 

 that he has already crossed the famous circle, he is 

 handed over at once to the attendants, to be " shaved 

 and baptized." This process, which is not always carried 

 out with exaggerated gentleness, causes much amuse- 

 ment, and forms a welcome variety in the monotonous 

 life of a long sea voyage, and probably many on board 

 the Fram looked forward with eagerness to Neptune's 

 visit, but he did not come. There simply was no room 

 for him on our already well-occupied deck. 



We contented ourselves with a special dinner, followed 

 by coffee, liqueurs, and cigars. Coffee was served on the 



