66 THE LABRADOR PEXIXSULA. CHAP. v. 



did not wonder that the men expressed their disgust at 

 the Grand Portage in no very refined language when 

 talking among themselves, or that some of them wished 

 most heartily that they had never left their homes. 



As soon as they got into the canoes, the usual light- 

 heartedness of the French Canadian race showed itself. 

 They stopped to take a look at the Portage when in the 

 middle of the river, and with many a merry laugh raised 

 their caps and bade it a respectful farewell, hoping, as 

 one of them observed, ' never to have the misfortune to 

 cross its path again.' 



Our voyage was of short duration ; for just as I was 

 beginning to enjoy the beautiful scenery and the magni- 

 ficent rocks, a series of heavy squalls came down the 

 river, which was bounded by high hills or precipices, and 

 quickly raised such a sea that we were in great danger of 

 being swamped. Making for the mouth of a little creek, 

 we lay to for more than an hour, until the wind had sub- 

 sided so as to allow us to cross and get under lee of the 

 land on the opposite side. The water-marks showed that 

 the river rises twelve feet above its present level. It must 



* 



then be a magnificent torrent, broad and rushing, carrying 

 an immense quantity of water - - probably not less than 

 the Ottawa at its usual level. 



Soon after we started we began to be impressed with 

 the grandeur of the scenes through which we were 

 passing. The wind had gone down, and the river glided 

 with unruffled surface, in quiet contrast with the noise, 

 and whirl, and foam, and rush of the Eapids below. 



All voices were hushed, and even the paddles dipped 

 Avith the utmost quietness into the water, by a simultaneous 



