66 NORTHERN RUSSIA. 



Wordsworth well knew, having had the advantage of a 

 large poetic nose to perceive it. No man feels himself 

 abroad until he has inhaled the smell of the " salle a 

 manger" or the " Speise Saal." And thus no man 

 realizes that he is at sea until he has felt the smell of the 

 cabin, and of those submarine cells called state-rooms 

 an aroma which stands alone, a product of sea and 

 land, ye't nothing else on sea or land having a scent, 

 like it! 



Then there are much about the same kind of waves on 

 every sea, that is to say, on ordinary occasions ; for 

 when put to it by a gale of wind, I would back the 

 Atlantic, anywhere between Cape Race and Cape Clear, 

 against all the treasures of the great deep, for breaking, 

 topping, sweeping, roaring blue seas. The North Sea is 

 not, indeed, to be despised, especially when it fights with 

 the winds, as Duncan did with the Dutch over the 

 Dogger-bank ; but the Baltic, though ambitious, and 

 often seriously angry, has all the testiness of a fresh- 

 water lake, but wants the grand majesty, the mountain- 

 swing of the real old Ocean. It is fierce and furious, not 

 awful and overwhelming like the Atlantic. 



Our passengers were, of course, divided between the 

 whole and the sick, with various species under this last 

 genus, from those possessing a solemn gravity and 

 pensive meditativ.eness, down to a solitary inert mass of 

 helpless agony, unconscious apparently of every existence 

 except that of the steward, whose name was feebly 

 ottered, by day and night, in spasmodic intervals. I have 



